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Post by Doegirl on Feb 15, 2008 16:43:49 GMT -5
It is too long, it's 28". One of my old "junk" arrows I just used for taking the pic. I'll be getting new arrows once we are sure of the correct arrow length yeah, what he said! I'd nock those arrows down right even with the riser. Skipmaster, once we get the DL down pat, the new arrows will be cut to proper length. Like I said this is an old junk arrow I was using for demo purposes only. You can be assured I won't be shooting arrows that stick out 2" past the riser. The 28" arrows were actually for a Parker Buckshot that required a lot less spine than my current bow. I could have gone really heavy on the point weight or go to a longer shaft. I choose the longer shaft. I could use the 25" shafts for the pics just fine, I suppose. They would be even with the Berger button hole.
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Post by BT on Feb 15, 2008 17:19:47 GMT -5
Hey Doegirl.....try some of what vonottoexperience is saying...play with it. He is an above average shooter who I have seen take his own advise to extremes. ..... and the dividends paid have been spectacular. (I'm too stubborn to listen to him or I'd be great too 'D )
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Post by Doegirl on Feb 15, 2008 18:08:15 GMT -5
I'd like to see you relax your bow hand. Make like your trying to stop something, put your arm out with palm facing out, then turn your hand 45% to the right {for leftys} relax your fingers. The front part of the grip should rest on the meaty part of your palm..fingers relaxed. This will prob. give you 1/2 draw length and put the nock directly under you eye..might have to move the peep down a bit and the kisser. O.K. now I'm confused. What you're describing is the low wrist position. I've got two different suggestions on which bow "grip" to use. Is it just a matter of figuring out which is best for me? Because I can tell you I've got some torqueing issues with the low grip.
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Post by BT on Feb 15, 2008 18:13:54 GMT -5
I'd like to see you relax your bow hand. Make like your trying to stop something, put your arm out with palm facing out, then turn your hand 45% to the right {for leftys} relax your fingers. The front part of the grip should rest on the meaty part of your palm..fingers relaxed. This will prob. give you 1/2 draw length and put the nock directly under you eye..might have to move the peep down a bit and the kisser. O.K. now I'm confused. What you're describing is the low wrist position. I've got two different suggestions on which bow "grip" to use. Is it just a matter of figuring out which is best for me? Because I can tell you I've got some torquing issues with the low grip. Yes....two points of view For low wrist and high wrist....keep that hand open as suggested I would try my way first since you have been shooting low wrist and if that doesn't work out....try other things until you find something that does
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Post by Doegirl on Feb 15, 2008 18:40:54 GMT -5
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Post by vonottoexperience on Feb 15, 2008 19:15:26 GMT -5
The problems that I see with shooting a "high wrist" is repeating it, and torque. Think of the Hooter shooter, it can put arrow after arrow in one hole, why? because it's a machine. Machines can repeat the same motion over and over again. When shooting a bow try and repeat the same shot mechanics over and over. To me a high wrist is hard to duplicate because of all the muscles being used in the wrist and forearm. You want to be as simple and sturdy as possible, bone on bone is much easier to repeat. The less muscles used, the less torque and a more repeatable shot.....which is what where striving for
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Post by BT on Feb 15, 2008 19:54:47 GMT -5
That's a great point vonotto That's why I shoot either high wrist or low wrist. For me , it is easier to shoot high wrist as opposed to low wrist due to the fact that I can super extend to only one end but...... I can relax my wrist to the point of slopping backwards....which allows the bow to jump out of my hand and hit me in the face. ;D For the bowtech I have to shoot high wrist and for a Hoyt , only low wrist will do. That's just what I have found to be true for me .... doesn't apply to everyone.
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Post by BT on Feb 15, 2008 20:00:38 GMT -5
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Post by BT on Feb 15, 2008 20:04:18 GMT -5
smg.photobucket.com/albums/v317/doegirl/?action=view¤t=lowwrist.flvOh Christ!! Hell no! .... that was nuts!! You are wayyyyyy better with the high wrist. You looked just the same but the bow got all crazy on the shot. If your shooting low wrist your gonna need more forward weight. Ughhhh......please dont make me watch that again ;D Seriously....your doing way way better with the high wrist at present *** Note....your follow through is seriously a thing of beauty
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royden
Senior Board Member
Posts: 1,349
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Post by royden on Feb 15, 2008 20:15:19 GMT -5
Wow - I should video myself shooting to learn from then again maybe NOT I'd be sooooo self conscious I couldn't hit the brick wall! I notice a few things. High wrist: Follow thru is better. Low wrist: You look more comfortable. Bow does appear to torque. I'd say to try a couple things. If your gonna video some more (by all means raise your target to chest high. Lower your left shoulder. Open your right hand and try shooting vonotto's method - (I prefer shooting his way too) I'd explain it like this: rotate your hand to the right so that your grip is pushing into your palm at the base of your thumb - right in line with the top bone of your forearm. Your fingers are in whatever is a relaxed natural hand state for you. Some people's hand is relaxed with fingers spread wide - others are relaxed with fingers slightly curled - my hands are conditioned to tools and equipment controls (they are relaxed when completly curled with index finger almost touching my thumb) A really good training exercise for me is to shoot with my eyes shut when I'm 3-10 yards from the target. I can focus on foot position (draw bow, shut eyes, turn at hip away from target, turn back, get comfy, open eyes and see if your point of aim has turned side to side - if so your feet need adjusting), shoulders (T shape in line with arrow), anchor point (arrive consistently), draw length (arrive consistently), grip ( how it feels, and how bow reacts after the shot), and release ( how I trigger and how my hand moves after the shot) P.S. I agree and assumed that your arrow was for practice purposes only. I suspect your draw length and form will change some more yet. Just don't ask me to video myself.
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