The Winter Setup...

[Doegirl]

Every year I go through this. I deny and ignore the problem until the very last minute. That is the need to crank the poundage down for the winter. Today, finally, I caved in . I jacked the bow down from 50 to 45lbs. Of course, that means I get to find a new arrow/broadhead combo. My Axis arrows are a bit heavy so I tried my Gold tip XT Hunters 35/55. Even though I'm limited in range (25-30 yds), trajectory still a huge issue for me. Then, I broke out the Magnus Stingers. To my suprise and delight, no fliers like I had with the Axis. On a hunch, I took the bleeders off. Bingo! Spot on! And I have few fletchings to replace . So, now I have a winter arrow: GT XT Hunters 35/55's cut to 25", wraps, 100grain Stingers with the bleeders removed. Hopefully I'll post in "Blood Trails" soon

[BT]

Very cool
What you found with the stingers is common but I wont suggest removing the bleeders on an open forum.
The folks that make them don't suggest or recommend doing this but I have done the same as you with no issues.
Glad to hear your good to go.
Have you tried the high country shafts?
For your light set up (with 75gr heads) they will smoke!....without hurting the bow.

[Doegirl]

admin said:

Very cool
What you found with the stingers is common but I wont suggest removing the bleeders on an open forum.
The folks that make them don't suggest or recommend doing this but I have done the same as you with no issues.
Glad to hear your good to go.
Have you tried the high country shafts?
For your light set up (with 75gr heads) they will smoke!....without hurting the bow.

That's an idea ATA minimum for my bow is 250grains. I got some latitude yet. Would you know why the folks at Magnus do not recommend removing the bleeders?

[BT]

Because the bleeder takes up the space for the knock out.
Without the bleeder the knock out is loose and therefore weakens the ferrule in high stress situations.

[Doegirl]

admin said:

Because the bleeder takes up the space for the knock out.
Without the bleeder the knock out is loose and therefore weakens the ferrule in high stress situations.

Oooh I was just playing with the ferrule of one of my heads and it is loose. Obviously it's not going anywhere, but you can move it around with your fingers

[BT]

Thats the deal

[SPIKER]

Go with the single blade model, as it has two screws that hold the blade in place.

Even with the bleeder in place on the four blade, that one screw can only take one or two practice shots before it allows the blade to move, and cause the broadhead to wobble...

If your tuning, and don't notice it, it will scew your results..

[Greg Krause]

I prefer the single balde as well. They are just tougher.

[elk4me]

I have decided too that my Season is over and I cranked my bows down to 60# DW from 65#. I like it alot better and think that I will keep both my 07 Cheetha and 08 Martin Moab down to 60# DW for all season. Cuz after all I am a 27.5" Dl and I dont get IBO speeds anyways , and 60# is alot easier to hold at FD than 65-70#

[BT]

60# is my fav.
5# isn't going to give any real word diffrence anyway.....your right on target with your logic IMO