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Post by BT on Mar 26, 2006 17:57:41 GMT -5
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Post by flatbowMB on Mar 28, 2006 1:13:22 GMT -5
I agree completely. All game deserve a sharp edge.  That, with the possible exception of grouse which will go down easily with a judo point. I also hate having a head stick in a tree 20 feet up or bury itself in a tree trunk so hard that you spend the next 45 minutes trying to hack it out. Additionally I hate losing an arrow in grass or underbrush. This is where the judo points are great, however they don't cut. I want something that cuts because the critter suffers a whole lot less and is far less likely to run off when it receives an ultra sharp edge. For example, I've noticed that squirrels die a whole lot faster (like instantly) when run through with a sharp broadhead, whereas they can run off and suffer when hit with a blunt or even a judo point. Unfortunately a squirrel does very little to slow a broadhead down and the odds of ever seeing that broad head again after shooting upwards at a 45 degree angle are slim to none. What I do to minimize arrow loss and ensure as quick a kill as possible is this; A) Use flu flu fletching - It makes a world of difference in finding your arrow whether shooting up or into the ground. B) Modify broadheads for small game since no manufacturer offers what I consider to be a decent broadhead (Magnus almost has it, G5 nowhere close, Judo points we've discussed). What I want is a small game BH that will not stick in a tree even if if hits it at full tilt, but will still provide a large cutting surface that can be sharpened/resharpened. It also has to be cheap, as in dirt cheap, becuase when you hunt small game you shoot alot of arrows and your bound to lose a few regardless. What this means is BH's that I pick up for next to nothing at garage sales and such that I don't consider to be up to snuff for big game. I also use whatever odd shafts I have that are not matched to or good enough for big game & target shooting. Here is a picture that will help me explain the BH modifications;  On the left is one of those tin foil 'bodkin' heads that you might find rattling in the bottom of tackle boxes of an archery shop, with about a 1/2" of the tip cut off. The guy at the archery shop will probably give you these just to get rid of them just so long as you promise him that you'll never ever try to shoot anything bigger than a squirrel with it. Screw a round head screw head into the tip and fire away In the middle is a bear super razor (modified & unmodified. They are actually pretty decent heads, but since I got a dozen for free and since there are much better heads out there, off with their tips, and on with the rivets & washers to keep them from burying into a tree. On the right is the old Archery Visions 'woodmaster' (modified & unmodified). Not a very good head at all as far as strength and construction goes. Did not sell well so it got rebadged as 'Steel Force' which makes it sound much stronger. The owner of my local archery shop tells me that Steel Force has beefed up these heads, but I'm not going to verify that on my dollar after seeing the earlier versions. If you are wondering why these head will not dig into a tree or bury under grass or brush, this view should help explain that. I still need to trim that Bear head back closer to the rivet & washers (I photodoc'd the previous photo to show where the cut line should be).  Hope this helps. |
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Post by BT on Mar 28, 2006 6:56:49 GMT -5
Your Mods also speak to another thread I have up here about being overly Picky on the weights of you arrow and FOC  Something tells me that you haven't cut these to fall on the 5gr. mark  And yet they will hit the mark fine That Magnus you speak of is pretty good if you are refering to the the one that has the flat blunt back of the leading blade  That one's not to bad at all. |
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Post by flatbowMB on Mar 28, 2006 9:37:51 GMT -5
These designs are admittedly crude and experimental. I will be able to get more particular about the weights of these buggers by cutting back on the front part of the glue in adapters. It'll just take some more trial & error. Another idea I know some guys are using is some .38 cal. handgun casings with a slit filed a ways down and a triangular piece of bandsaw blade inserted and riveted into that slit.. the bandsaw blade gets sharpened and away they go. The Magnus small game heads are the closest thing to what I would consider ideal from a commercially availble head, but before I'd purchase them, there are 3 things that would have to be modified,. which are; a) Price b) Thicker stronger bleeder blades. (I know, that I keep harping on the need for thicker blades. With the exception of the Silver flames, I'd say that ALL other BHs on the market need to thicken their blades). c) The tip of the bleeder blade must not stick out past the leading flat part of the head. It'll cause the arrow to stick in the trees |
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Post by huntinglover on Mar 30, 2006 21:05:42 GMT -5
howa bout blunt tipped broadheads on an arrow with a flu flu attachemnt attached to a fishin line an reel set up kinda like fer bow fishing,that way wen ya launch one sky ward fer that flyin crow u can retrieve it with the fishin line. sounds crude as Iranian oil,but every idea starts somewhere...lol
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Post by BT on Mar 30, 2006 21:33:25 GMT -5
LMAO Alright.....That was pretty darn funny. |
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Post by huntinglover on Apr 1, 2006 16:57:06 GMT -5
i guess its a good thing i didnt start off by saying..."this is a serious idea/suggestion"... lmao
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Post by michihunter on Apr 1, 2006 18:42:41 GMT -5
BT- Didn't you do a review on the G5 SGH? I thought you were pretty up omn that head for small game from what I recall.
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Post by gary on Apr 2, 2006 9:13:43 GMT -5
LOL howa bout blunt tipped broadheads on an arrow with a flu flu attachemnt attached to a fishin line an reel set up kinda like fer bow fishing,that way wen ya launch one sky ward fer that flyin crow u can retrieve it with the fishin line. sounds crude as Iranian oil,but every idea starts somewhere...lol |
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aclakey
Junior Member
Put it in the plumbing!
Posts: 99
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Post by aclakey on Apr 2, 2006 9:49:31 GMT -5
I have never been a fan of blunts on small game a stated above, they don't constitute a quick kill. I have experimented and have found a blunt that also cuts, the Magnus blunt is the best of both. I have been using the Magnus blunts the past year and have had devistating impact and quick kills. It is basically an all steel blunt with a Magnus bleeder blade from their 4 blade heads. Works great.  Another outstanding head for small game is the NAP spitfire Gobbler Getter.  I have used it with great success on everything from squirrels, rock chucks, grouse, turkey, and even a coyote that came in to my turkey calling last year. GReat impact and cutting power. |
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That, with the possible exception of grouse which will go down easily with a judo point. I also hate having a head stick in a tree 20 feet up or bury itself in a tree trunk so hard that you spend the next 45 minutes trying to hack it out.
