New Bow for the next season

[royden]

what are you using for your anchor ... and is that your release or his?

agreed, 27" looks too short; wouldn't want to go out on limb based on one pic, but I would say 2 things (which I am sure you have noticed). 1) - hard to tell form/draw length shooting down like that and 2) - try tucking your bow shoulder in

carry on Grasshopper

[omegabuck]

It was my release. It's the Tru Fire one I picked up a few months ago. What am I using for my anchor ... what exactly do you mean? I know that may sound a little silly but I just try to get it to the same spot everytime. I've been trying to get my knuckles near my jaw bone I guess. Although I've learned a lot on this forum since joining it, nobody's ever showed me much in regards to how to shoot.
By bow shoulder I'm assuming you mean my left shoulder? (the one I'm actually holding the bow with) I will have to do some research on that.

Jan 15, 2010 19:42:40 GMT -5 royden said:

what are you using for your anchor ... and is that your release or his?

agreed, 27" looks too short; wouldn't want to go out on limb based on one pic, but I would say 2 things (which I am sure you have noticed). 1) - hard to tell form/draw length shooting down like that and 2) - try tucking your bow shoulder in

carry on Grasshopper

[royden]

tedicast or BT could probably lead you better in this style of release than I - not my personal style of release and one I need to get better informed on - which does remind me ... spott hog makes one that is a thumb relax-to-release style - really will mess with your mind

Anchor - the spot your release hand comes to each and everytime. Needs to be some point on your face that is very easy to feel and hard to miss. What caught my eye here is that it looks very easy to creep forward with the position your hand is in - and the bowstring could come back towards your nose a little more (longer draw). Without some more pics, I don't want to second guess your man who recommended 27.5", but a little longer bow than this one would be a good start. Something to note too ... depending on how long you have shot, you may find your draw length changes: due to the form you settle in to. If you bring your right foot farther forward a little more you may find your draw changing but being more consistent there too.

As to the shoulder - yes the left shoulder. When shooting down hill (like the pic) you want to lean forward at the hips leaving your upper torso in the same T position as if you were shooting at a chin level target. Dissecting your pic, it would appear that your left shoulder is too high even discounting the not leaning into the shot scenario. For me one thing I try to do that really helps my consistency is to "tuck" my shoulder. During my shot sequence I will consciously "pull" my shoulder down and in ... you can feel the difference as you relax some muscles and tense others to get your shoulder in line. Imagine a straight line from your right elbow, to right shoulder, left shoulder, to left thumb - often I find my left shoulder up and out due to muscle tenseness.

hope that helps rather than confuses

[omegabuck]

For the most part it makes sense. For the rest, I get your drift, will just have to put it in action.

[omegabuck]

Okay went out and did a bit of shooting after getting 6 arrows cut to 27". The length by the way, is very nice! Now that the spine is closer to being correct, if it's not entirely correct ... can't be certain off the top of my head, anyway, I've come to realise that there's a lot of things that are OFF!!!! First, I've got a boat tail. Second, I've got a bit of a porpoise. Third, my pins are off. My first pin (20 yards) is about 4" high .. give or take. My second pin (30 yards) is just about dead on for 35 yards. My third pin (40 yards) is just about dead on at 45 yards.

All I can guess is that the better flight from the arrows has affected arrow flight. They might fly better once I get the arrows flying correctly.

[SPIKER]

Ok, step back, and take a breath.

Now that you have changed arrow length, you have to retune your bow.

Place a piece of tape vertically on your target from top to bottom.

Start at 10 yds. Shoot at the tape until you hit the tape dead center anywhere up or down adjusting your sight if needed.

Go to 15 yds. and shoot at the tape. (Anywhere is fine, don't hit your arrows).

Go to 20 yds. shoot at the tape. (Once again anywhere on the tape).

Now, if the second shot hits a little left of the tape, and the third hits even more left, move your rest slightly to the right.

The opposite applies for the reverse.

Go to 30 yds., and make sure that your arrows are still hitting the line. If not, adjust the rest accordingly very slightly.

Now for the horizontal.

Place a piece of tape horizontally across the target.

Start at 10 yds. Shoot at the tape until you hit the center of the tape anywhere along it, adjusting your sight as needed.

Then, go to 15 yds. Shoot at the tape.

If you hit high at 15, lower your rest a slight bit, if you hit low, raise the rest....ever so slightly.

Go to 20 yds. Shoot at the tape. Make any further adjustments as needed.

This is walkback tuning. You should see a big difference in arrow flight after doing this.

[omegabuck]

I will try this today!

[omegabuck]

I shot the Hoyt Maxxis 31 again ... after shooting all the other bows that I could shoot. I like it, and I'm thinking it's the one! The only thing is, getting used to the cam and a half. It was set at 70 lbs ... 8 pounds heavier than the one I'm shooting now, so that was a bit of a surprise ... I'll h ave to build up to that I think. LOL

Seen the Vulcan up there, didn't shoot it ... it wasn't set up but it was for sale, brand new as far as I could tell .... around $600. Not sure what the Maxxis was, didn't ask. LOL

Jan 17, 2010 0:05:39 GMT -5 SPIKER said:

Ok, step back, and take a breath.

Now that you have changed arrow length, you have to retune your bow.

Place a piece of tape vertically on your target from top to bottom.

Start at 10 yds. Shoot at the tape until you hit the tape dead center anywhere up or down adjusting your sight if needed.

Go to 15 yds. and shoot at the tape. (Anywhere is fine, don't hit your arrows).

Go to 20 yds. shoot at the tape. (Once again anywhere on the tape).

Now, if the second shot hits a little left of the tape, and the third hits even more left, move your rest slightly to the right.

The opposite applies for the reverse.

Go to 30 yds., and make sure that your arrows are still hitting the line. If not, adjust the rest accordingly very slightly.

Now for the horizontal.

Place a piece of tape horizontally across the target.

Start at 10 yds. Shoot at the tape until you hit the center of the tape anywhere along it, adjusting your sight as needed.

Then, go to 15 yds. Shoot at the tape.

If you hit high at 15, lower your rest a slight bit, if you hit low, raise the rest....ever so slightly.

Go to 20 yds. Shoot at the tape. Make any further adjustments as needed.

This is walkback tuning. You should see a big difference in arrow flight after doing this.

[BT]

1,500

[rattlesnake]

Jan 20, 2010 20:31:47 GMT -5 BT said:

1,500

You're thinking of that Carbon Matrix Kris....I'm thinking the Maxxis will run around $800 though being it's one of Hoyt's flagships for 2010.