Red Oak Board Bow Buildalong

[smj]

I went back to look at the pics you posted of the bow on the tiller tree... Here is a thought for you on what is happening:

It looks like you may have the bow a bit stiff up by the grip, which makes the length of the grip area longer than it should be. Hence, the last half of the limb tends to do all the work, store all the energy, do most of the flexing. Because of this, it is about the same as having a shorter bow length. Look at the angle of the last tiller tree pic you posted... Take note of the right limb as seen in the pic, the string angle is getting right at 90 degrees to the limb. One thing that can help this is to allow the bow to flex through the grip area. This is an old and much use design handed down from centuries ago! Also, you get to store energy through the grip... This means that there is a lot less stress on the limbs for a bow of the same draw weight. Result, longer lasting bow - but probably a bit slower shooter! The more limb that moves, the more mass you have to move, which can slow things down a bit yet probably preform better with a heavy arrow. Fun stuff!!!!

[Coca Cola]

I see. So I cant really fix it? I think for the hickory backed Ipe I am planning I might do a longbow thet bends in handle with alittle relfew glued in. I think thats going to be my newt project

[Coca Cola]

I didnt see your post on page six before last one.

Umm well the bow is 68 inches 66 nock to nock

[smj]

What is your draw length? You might also make the bow a bit longer nock to nock on the next one. That too, will help!

[smj]

Hey, I just thought of something here... Your bow is linen backed. You could sand off the linen, like you did when you didn't like the way it came out, and put a thin layer of hickory on it as a backing. You could also put in a little reflex to help the string follow at glue up. It would mean retillering it, of course, and would add to the draw weight so you'd have to reduce the limbs a bit. Or, for that matter, you could put a bamboo backing on it. Same deal. Just thought I'd drop that bug in your ear! Yeah, you can "fix" it if you want to... You'd have to pick up some good glue, but that's easy enough to find - so is bamboo or hickory! Let me know.

By the way, it really isn't about fixing it, rather, changing it to be what you want!

[Coca Cola]

I am going to leave this bow alone its in the past. I will just get myself into trouble. I usually am never happy and I try to fix ( change it the way I want ) it one to many times and then it breaks. For my next bow I definately want to glue reflex in.

My Dl is a whopping 27" stack shouldnt be a problem with that type of length right?

Also where can I buy good hickory backing and whats a good glue if I am planning on glueing in some reflex

[smj]

Yeah, a 27 inch draw length should not be a problem. I think you just need to get more flex back towards the grip area, that will distribute the flex over more of the bow rather than getting it all at the ends of the limbs.

Pine Hollow Longbows has hickory and bamboo for $15...
www.pinehollowlongbows.com/products2.asp?CategoryID=2

They also sell glue:
www.pinehollowlongbows.com/products2.asp?CategoryID=7
I like URAC 185, Smooth-on works great but requires heat.

Rudderbows also has hickory for $15, and bamboo for $14.
I see I put this in wrong! Try this one fro the heat treated bamboo from Rudderbows...
216.119.68.89/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_7&products_id=52&zenid=17414190f6c5292894ffb0de6881fa95

Rudderbows sells a house glue. I have heard of folks having troubles with this glue, I've used it though and had no issues so far. I think you have to follow the instructions. Bow Grip 100:
216.119.68.89/store/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=glue

Note that in either case you will have to plane down the bamboo in order to use it. If you want the bamboo sent to you already thinned down it will cost a bit more. You can reduce the boo with a rasp, sander, bandsaw, jointer, spoke-shave, there are options for that. Jointer is the easy way, but not required!

[Coca Cola]

What about here?
www.bowstick.com/storefront/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=19_29


Thats alittle cheaper. Plus the already flattened boo is 22$

[smj]

Rudderbow has the "planed bamboo backing strips, heat tempered" for the same money - $22.95

216.119.68.89/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=52&zenid=1ddc613e72fa217bd49872408a13784d

The shop you mention gets $26.95 for the heat tempered bamboo...

Please keep in mind - it is your choice where you pick stuff up! Most of these places are within a dollar or two of each other (go figure!) and I doubt you will go wrong where ever you buy! They all seem to be very helpful. I tend to pick the site with the best over-all price on as much stuff as I can order - saves shipping by buying at one place.

Also, I think I said this before - just because they say the bamboo is ready to glue on does not mean that you will want to do so. I find you still need to go over it, although the amount of work required is not nearly as much as it otherwise would be.

[Coca Cola]

Ok I am having doubts about using ipe. I called around not many carry it. I also found out that the dust can be quite messy? and some are allergic to it. My mom is allergic to everything. Also my parents already arent happy about the saw dust from my last one. We have a shed close to the lake that would be perfect to build bows in but the only problem is that it is 35 degrees out. So I think I will save an Ipe bow until summer.

I have an osage core that I bought at the trad show. SHould I do that? or should I get a hickory board and make a bow out of that. Maybe another red oak bow. Right now I think ipe is best saved for summer.

If I do use that osage core I think it will be backed with boo. I am open to suggestions