Coca Cola
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Post by Coca Cola on Feb 6, 2007 19:06:01 GMT -5
Presenting Full brace woooo hooo. Took alot of work to get here. I didnt even think my bow would make it this far. I am suprised I did alot of tillering at low brace and forgot to take pictures inbetween. . But I arrived at the conclusion it was time for the full brace. Havent done any tillering at full brace just popped it in and out real quick. Link- i95.photobucket.com/albums/l127/jjrb715/Picture051.jpgNow here is how much set I have ( sorry for bad pic) Link- i95.photobucket.com/albums/l127/jjrb715/Picture052.jpgThats all for tonight I think. I might put back the low brace and take some pics of the tiller I arrived at with that. I always do a better job of deciding what to do next with pictures not actually being there so I will find out how good of a job I did. Note I didnt trim the linen around the nocks I am planning on giving them some sort of shape so I though I would save it for later so if my bow breaks I didnt was time on them.
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Post by BT on Feb 7, 2007 7:11:14 GMT -5
Alright! Way to go dude That was a major undertaking and a pretty good show of it IMO
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Coca Cola
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Post by Coca Cola on Feb 7, 2007 20:04:32 GMT -5
Thanks, I have to take some more weight off though . I hope I dont screw up the tiller in doing so. I might get time to work on it but I have skiing like crazy now so not very much time. I just got back from school 10 minutes ago.
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smj
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Post by smj on Feb 7, 2007 22:30:23 GMT -5
Hey!!! That there stick looks like a bow! Congratulations and a nice job!
So what is it drawing as it is and what weight are you going for?
PS - As to brace height - if the string nicks your wrist bad when you shoot, put some twists in the string and increase the brace height to where it stays off your wrist. With a low brace, even an arm guard might not be enough to save your wrist. A low brace is easier on the bow, and you get a longer power stroke, but I personally hate having little bites taken out of my wrist when I shoot! If you don't have that issue now, you might after you shoot it in a bit and the string plays out.
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smj
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Post by smj on Feb 7, 2007 22:43:30 GMT -5
A couple other thoughts -
1 - You really did do a nice job. Most folks won't take the time to go slowly as they go through the tiller process and one flaw in the wood or a hinge that gets over stressed to soon - the bow never gets there! You did.
2 - Check your tiller at regular brace height. A lot of folks like around an eighth inch positive tiller. Check before you determine upper or lower limb. You may save yourself some work there.
3 - Tiller can change as the bow shoots in. Don't go to wild on finish until you have shot 50 to 100 rounds through it and are happy with the ultimate tiller settings.
4 - The amount of set, or follow, you have is great! You may pick up a bit as the bow shoots in, but your care in tillering and smooth limb design shows!
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Coca Cola
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Post by Coca Cola on Feb 7, 2007 22:45:40 GMT -5
Any tips for shaping the handle? I think I might have time on friday to devote to that. I am going to try to tiller tommorow with the full brace. I have to take weight off it too, so that will be fun.
Any suggestions for my next bow. I was thinking something alittle harder.
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smj
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Post by smj on Feb 8, 2007 8:35:21 GMT -5
Three choices for you: Bamboo backed bow, a shorter bow, or a reflex/deflex bow.
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Coca Cola
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Post by Coca Cola on Feb 8, 2007 21:15:40 GMT -5
Ok here we go. I am not entirely sure if these pics are in chronological order. I didnt always draw it further when I would fix something. Maybe I forgot to take the last pic. It looked alot better hmm... I wonder if I forgot. I did alot of changes on the last one ( tillering) it doesnt look like it in pic. Well I have to go. I finally have it to my draw length and its pretty close to my intended weight ( 40#) Its about 43. Any comments? EDIT- I definately didnt get the final pic. . I fixed the flat spot about 1/3 into the limb on right side, got tips bending alittle more especially on left side. I will try to get pics. Bt can you see the pics? smj, I was thinking of doing a Hickory backed ipe R/D. Could be fun. what do you think. I dont think I have adequate tools to do bamboo. Speaking of tools I am kinda pround not a single power tool touched this. Although it doesnt matter to me that much its still kinda cool
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smj
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Post by smj on Feb 9, 2007 10:32:13 GMT -5
"smj, I was thinking of doing a Hickory backed ipe R/D. "
I think it a great idea! To bad we live so far apart - I could let you use my bow jig. So far as bamboo goes, you do not need a power tool to get it done. It is hard stuff, but don't get bent over that... I'll post some pics this weekend to show how to do this without the power tools, and some pics of what hand tools I like most. The hard part is reducing the bamboo without a bandsaw or jointer. However, for something like $5 - $8 more, you can buy the bamboo with that already done for you - just touch up and clean up left to do. I can also give you some dimensions to try for setting up your bow jig to give an R/D bow a try. It is a bit more of a project, but I think you will like it. I can also help you deal with the ipe - it was the hardest wood to work with that I've tried so far. I have used hickory, red oak, cedar, osage, and ipe for belly stock.
If you are at 43 pounds at your draw length - shoot it a while before you try to reduce the bow any further. Typically, once the bow shoots in you will loose a couple pounds. Less than 2" of follow is great, 1.5" rocks! Again, nice job... Time to go whack something...
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Coca Cola
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Post by Coca Cola on Feb 9, 2007 15:13:50 GMT -5
Where can I buy Ipe? Local stores like lowes and home depot dont carry it do they? And I look for the same type of grain as I did with red oak right? vertical with thick thick growth rings?
I am going to be gone this weekend so dont expect to hear much from me.
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