smj
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Traditional Council
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Post by smj on Mar 16, 2007 9:36:16 GMT -5
Eastern - your tips look great! You seem to have a real talent for woodworking. There is one hazard with setting the nocks prior to tillering and limb finishing... If, as you progress with your tillering, you end up making the limb more narrow or having to shorten the limb - you could end up having to redo the nocks. If you narrow the limb and get off center, you could end up shortening the limbs to realign things. Or, if you want to increase the draw weight, you will shorten the limbs. I think this is why most folks leave the nocks for last, or at least, leave off putting the tip over-lays on until last.
By the way, let me know if you ever start making elk bugles... That moose call is just plain cool! You do really nice work.
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Post by easternhunter on Mar 16, 2007 10:43:32 GMT -5
Thanks SMJ....kind words fer sure. I can make moose calls, turkey box calls...I plan on starting a wingbone call someday. Never thought of a elk call tho. I didn't think about those reasons for leaving the nocks rough..see-you DO learn something new everyday.LOL Again, I wasn't sure how to proceed, but I'm happy enough with them. NOW, I gotta shape the riser abit just to get the curves in it, but I'll leave the belly side flat so I have a solid base for the bow to site in the tiller tree. SMJ, I'm thinking that I'll have to taper the belly wood before I actually start tillering, since it's a full 3/8" thk. or maybe the tillering will take care of that on it's own??? any help at this point is very welcome. My goal is to at least get this thing to cast a couple of arrows....then if it blows, then I'll start bow #2!
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Coca Cola
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Formerly, upthere.
Posts: 406
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Post by Coca Cola on Mar 16, 2007 15:22:39 GMT -5
Tips look great. you have some skills !!!
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smj
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Traditional Council
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Post by smj on Mar 16, 2007 17:39:01 GMT -5
At this point, I think you need to go through the tillering process. Start with floor tillering. Don't try for a lot of bend, just get the limbs to move a bit. You don't really want to notice flex in any one place, that would suggest a hinge. You just want general movement through the limb. This means that you will probably need to thin the limbs a bit to get them started. Once you have movement, then you can switch to the tillering tree. Once you have some flex and can string it, now you can see where you are at draw weight wise, too. My bows usually pull 20 pounds in the first inch or two of draw the first time I check. Don't pull more than 1/2 the draw weight you want to end up with - obviously until you start to get more than an inch or two of draw. As you increase draw, you should start looking at where you are at. Usually as you draw the bow you will get so many pounds per inch of draw. So, you can get an idea of what draw length will give you what draw weight. Make sense? You can use a bathroom scale... Leave the bow on the tiller tree and set the base of the tiller tree on the scale - you may need to place a board across the scale first. Then pull the string down so that the tiller tree is driven into the scale. It works well.
That sharp bend of yours may cause you some grief. Go easy, take small amounts, you will probably see the bend when the bow is strung, and it may not totally go away even at full draw. What ever you do, make sure that it is not the first point of movement. You want that bend to uncurl itself as the draw is pulled back. Yet, if you just go for the uncurl, depending on your draw length, you could end up with all the work being done by that one little section of limb. This would probably not make for a long lasting bow! So - you are going to have an interesting time of it, I think.
I am out of town over the weekend. My pal broke his arm and he needs help up at the ranch this weekend. I'll be setting fence post and rounding up cows! (I may just need a horse come elk season...) I'll check in Sunday evening.
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smj
Forum Guide
Traditional Council
Posts: 1,819
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Post by smj on Mar 16, 2007 20:14:15 GMT -5
So, I am just about to head out to Dan's for a little cowboy work... Here is where I am at with the current hickory/bamboo in process... Rough off the jig - Cleanup with cabinet scraper and then the big rasp, followed by the cabinet scraper again! Time to pick out a grip block... I think I will go with the black palm, with the pinkish wood between - and on the tips as well. Adios!
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Post by easternhunter on Mar 16, 2007 21:28:12 GMT -5
SMJ...the more I think on it, I begin to ask myself "what was I thinking!" I now understand that this sharp bend will indeed be a bear on the tree!
It didn't seem that severe in the form, so now I gotta work past it. then build a new one to make up for my mistakes.
That bbh is looking sweet..not sharp curves thereLOL! really nice profile sir! How long will the riser block be? I may not get any tillering done this weekend as the kids are visiting, but maybe Monday...I think if I only do abit each nite it will prevent me from going crazy with it and rushing things... From what you see, do I stand a chance of pulling this tri-lam off? I'll keep you posted.
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Post by stilllearning on Mar 17, 2007 6:44:11 GMT -5
Like I have been telling you this is your first bow and man does it look great. Even if you only get one arrow out of it you did it and learned alot. I can't remember who said it but this man has a lot of tallent with wood. then he thinks that it is not good enough. Jeepers, not good enough. I wish I had half that talent. You should see some of his drawings.
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Post by easternhunter on Mar 17, 2007 7:22:40 GMT -5
Still....if you STILL have access. someone on TradGang wants to send you an arrow building video...get over there and accept it quick!
Well, thanks for the ra-ra there SL. but you know I'm not satisfied, and I'm already planning for bow #2! Mybe, just maybe I won't put such a deep deflex in the next one.
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Post by stilllearning on Mar 17, 2007 18:16:06 GMT -5
LOL
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Post by BT on Mar 17, 2007 21:28:16 GMT -5
I love the look of that bow SMJ Very comfortable looking
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