Building a bow

[smj]

upthere said:

I have a question, Why dont you cut the core out to shape and floor tiller it before glue up.
Isnt the reason you never pull a bow past its intended draw weight is to prevent unnesecary wood damage? So by leaving it in the form like that it seemingly would have same effect. I realize it would be harder to keep everything together but it also seems like you would have it relax less.
Am I right? or am I totally wrong?

The idea of floor tillering before backing is flawed. Sorry! Here's the deal. Back in the day, bows were made wide and long. By wide, I am talking 2 inches or more limb width. By long, they were cut to match the height of the shooter. This was done to cut back on the stress that the bow limb has to endure while being flexed for shooting. If you are backing a bow, you can make the limbs thinner, and also make it shorter tip to tip. This is because your backing is helping to absorb the stress of shooting this slim and trim bow. So, when you start to flex this bow of less structure you run the risk of breaking something. Yeah, it does depend on how much you flex the thing... Still, why risk it? There are other reasons, but it is late and I am tired!

You are correct, never over-draw a non-glass bow. The added compression in the guts of the limb can cause the tiller to change. Once you train the wood to flex to a certain point, and tiller for that amount of flex, you should not draw it farther. The idea of getting just a little bit more out of the bow by just yanking it back a bit more - should be avoided. Don't let others draw the bow without an arrow on it of proper length, make sure they observe the rules!

I have thought about putting a little trim on the limbs prior to glue up. I like to have a big surface to lay out on since everything always slips around a bit - But I have wondered, too, if the limbs would not benifit from a slight side taper towards the tips to reduce the stress through the curve of the limb at glue up. It is very hard to get things to line up though once all surfaces are wet and you start to clamp down. If you trim stuff to fine before hand, I think you could end up with some really bad alignment issues. Figure out how to do it, what the gains are, and post the results here!

I spent my evening fixing my bandsaw. The key came out of the drive pulley! What a mess! What a great job to have done with!

[easternhunter]

OK guys...pics of last nite's work are in Photobucket....here's a link...
s179.photobucket.com/albums/w301/Easternarcher/

How they come out OK...tips are roughed in....maybe a bit too blocky still, but good enough for tillering. This Cumarru makes some interesting colored tips eh?
Comments Welcome.

[smj]

Looks like it's starting to shape up! I like the shape of the tips. I usually cut the nocks in before smoothing the tip. I like having the string nocks in place and form the tip around that feature. You will have to place your nocks to match the conturs you've worked into the tip as it exists in almost final form. I've not done it that way before, and look forward to seeing where you put the cuts!

Looking at your limbs...



Did you plan on having a sharp curve and then fairly straight out to the tip? I put a 1/8th inch of taper (give or take a bit) on my belly stock to get a more even flex throughout the length of the limb. I also clamp it down before glue up to see if I like the way it is flexing on the jig. If it looks stiff, I take just a bit more off - it don't take a whole lot! Anyway, just wondering!

[easternhunter]

NO...DID NOT PLAN ON HAVING SUCH A SHARP CURVE.....CHALK IT UP TO LEARNING EXPERIENCE WITH MY FIRST BOW HERE.

[BT]

That is still a hot looking form regardless of what you intended

I would snap a limb off while stringing it no doubt ;D

So cool though......really like it so far

[easternhunter]

Thanks BT....I'll post pics of the nocks tomorrow.. I cut them in tonite..keep in mind that I have NEVER done this stuff before! So I'm nervous and apprehensive with every new step I take.

Actually, I planned the nocks better than the dang limbs.
The rough tip blocks were 2 " end-end. I measured down from the limb tip 1" and marked it. With the bottom inch filed to this nice sweep to the limb, that means that the nocks are cut just above where this slope breaks over to the flat. I then used my trusty carpenter's triangle and marked an angle(55 deg.) looked to follow the sweep of the belly under the tips pretty good.

Believe me, I wasn't sure how deep to cut them, so studied alot of pics of other people's work..this didn't help at all as everybody does it different, so I just went for it. I used a rattail rasp and took it about 3/4ths deep into the wood. I hope this works OK. I cut the sides in first to make sure they were even or at least close, then cut straight across the top and filed the belly side to come in fairly close to meeting.
There is ALOT to this stuff , but I'm sure(hoping) that it gets easier as I go along and plan for #2, or #3...

[Coca Cola]

Eastern, its harder then it looks lol. I did my first ones like a week ago and they dont look so pretty. Hopefully yours will look sweet. If your bow is an indicator I am sure they will turn out fine.

[easternhunter]

Here's the promised pics from last nite: Sorry for the poor quality.

[BT]

Looks like you got it!

[stilllearning]

Nice job as usual. Eastern is very thural with every step when working with wood. Do any of you remeber the Birch Bark moose call he made me? Well here is a reminder.





I actualy didn't want to take it to the woods but was told all it was good for was to use.