Coca Cola
Board Regular
Formerly, upthere.
Posts: 406
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Post by Coca Cola on Apr 9, 2007 20:37:09 GMT -5
Looks like fingers and hands in your hot tent thing. The shadows. lol
Its lookin good. Can't wait to see final product.
Jatoba is comparable to Ipe correct?
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Post by easternhunter on Apr 9, 2007 20:49:06 GMT -5
I think so Coke....maybe just a bit softer. sure looks purdy tho.
yah, I propped up the tent with whatever 2X4 or sticks I had to keep the blankets off the lamps...didn't wanna set off any smoke alarms at 3 in the morning. LOL
Your likely refferring to the long legs of the bar clamps near the bottom there...yup, didn't see that before.
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smj
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Traditional Council
Posts: 1,819
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Post by smj on Apr 9, 2007 23:16:57 GMT -5
Looks like a bow to me! I think you are in business this time... Go slow on the tillering, don't take off to much material at any one time. Give it plenty of partial draws between limb reductions; a little flex is needed to get the limbs to work in a bit after taking wood off. I look forward to seeing how this goes for you - ask all the questions you want! I'll even try to find an answer for you!
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Post by easternhunter on Apr 10, 2007 5:31:03 GMT -5
OK. SMJ...Howz this for a question...concerning tillering...
I've seen bowyers like Dryad where they chamfer the edges off by nearly half first...this creates facets and most of the wood is removed from the flat belly face..is this what you recommend, or do I leave the belly full width flat and just shave it down the entire width all along the working limb?
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smj
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Traditional Council
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Post by smj on Apr 10, 2007 7:21:09 GMT -5
I've already answered this question! Take a look back on page 3 of this thread, around mid-page. I actually mark up a bow to show how this works. You can leave the belly flat, or chamfer the edges. Leaving the belly flat is harder to do. Dean Torges also uses the chamfer idea - says that "you can do this how ever you want, but it is good to have a plan." His results are hard to argue with! If you chamfer the edges, you remove material from the chamfer to reduce draw weight, and then from the middle third of the limb to tiller. Although, if the limb is way thick, you will remove from both for draw weight. Don't run the chamfer all the way to the backing! Leave enough edge to be able to round the limb edge - without making it look like a knife edge! The chamfer should lay down on the belly as you get to draw weight and tiller. Make sense?
You can also chamfer the grip section to end up with a round grip. Start with chamfering the edges, then chamfer the new edges, and so on until you have a hexigon cross section. Then smooth it out with a spoke shave and sandpaper. Note however, the angle of the grip chamfer is different from the angle of the limb chamfer - hence - when you go from limb to grip or grip to limb, right there at the fades, you really need to watch the angle of the rasp!
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Greg Krause
Moderator
PRO STAFF 1
AKA- Skipmaster1
Posts: 3,990
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Post by Greg Krause on Apr 11, 2007 19:57:28 GMT -5
well, i started this thread and have not really participated. I have been following closley and trying to gain as much info as i can. everyone here is SO talented.
I have not had the chance to pick up supplies or start one of my own. I have been very busy. Now that I am hooked on trad gear and the longbow in particular, I WILL be starting my own project in the near future, even if it means just doing a little here and there as time allows.
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Post by easternhunter on Apr 11, 2007 23:09:53 GMT -5
Well Skip, sorry we took over the thread eh! But we've been havin' a whole lot of fun learnin' from mistakes and successes here....it's a treasuretrove of info.....
By all means, go get ye some wood and commence whittlin'...I'd love to see someone else get into this thing!
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smj
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Post by smj on Apr 12, 2007 7:19:30 GMT -5
Nothing beats shooting your own!
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Post by easternhunter on Apr 12, 2007 7:31:18 GMT -5
Well, news from the JAtoba bowbuild.....got the riser block rough shaped and glued/clamped last night. Seemed to go well, left the belly side of block flat to better sit in the tiller tree.
No pics til I clean it up....shouldn't be too bad, I taped off the limbs etc. to prevent squeeze out mess.
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smj
Forum Guide
Traditional Council
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Post by smj on Apr 16, 2007 8:12:13 GMT -5
I spent Saturday at the Boulder county high school invitational track meet watching my daughter run the 200, 400, and also do the high jump. I spent all day Sunday at a volleyball tournament watching my other daughter try to stuff a ball down other girls throats! Fun, but I didn't get to work on a single bow this past weekend! I have one on the tiller tree and three more in the works. Still, in-between games I have been giving some thought to a couple of issues that can pop up with wood bows. One is why the tiller can change after 500 shots - what happens to the bow and what can we do to avoid this problem. I am still pulling it together, but am going to design a bow based on this study and build it here. Then we'll see how it shoots and how it holds up over time! Another thought was on torque - how to avoid it. Again, we'll toss this in to the design as well.
As to the bamboo order - I am still waiting for it to come in!
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