|
|
Post by easternhunter on Apr 4, 2007 8:47:54 GMT -5
SMJ...yup, the air is likely still hazy up there on the Ridge.
I mix the Urac by volume....2:1. Maybe I got the mix wrong, had to do 2/3rd. cup vol. to cover everything. Both surfaces completely wet out with glue too.
Temp is around 70-75deg.
Acetone seemed to have enough time - 1/2 hour at least.
glue was not wet, set up well with just abit of sponginess to it.
Both surfaces let go, but more glue remained on the Jatoba than the hickory.
Surfaces seemed to not be sticking well at all. no splinters lifted with glue..both still intact.
I even toothed both surfaces and hit them with steel wool to clean before I used the acetone.
MAn, if this ain't a classic "DO and Don't" archive, I don't what is....LOl(sigh)
|
|
|
|
Post by stilllearning on Apr 4, 2007 9:58:56 GMT -5
I think the way to look at it is by time you get one done it will never come apart cause you are getting all the mistakes out of the way now. Keep trying it will work out in the end.
|
|
|
|
Post by easternhunter on Apr 5, 2007 8:33:53 GMT -5
After investigating further, it appears that I may not have given the glue long enough to set properly....could be other factors involved as well, I dunno. So question is....do I cure the thing in a hotbox for a couple of days?  ? |
|
smj
Forum Guide
Traditional Council
Posts: 1,819
|
Post by smj on Apr 5, 2007 12:24:26 GMT -5
I keep all my bows between 75 and 80 degrees F while curing, and let them set for 24 hours. Everything I have heard says that this is over-kill, but I have yet to have one come apart on me.
You can thumb back through the pictures posted on this thread, I just turn on some 40W lights and toss a sheet over the top. Seems to work very well.
|
|
|
|
Post by easternhunter on Apr 5, 2007 12:59:42 GMT -5
OK...that's a good idea. do you leave the lights on for the full 24 hours?
|
|
smj
Forum Guide
Traditional Council
Posts: 1,819
|
Post by smj on Apr 5, 2007 14:13:09 GMT -5
Yes, I leave the lights on to maintain the temperature. I have a small digital read out to keep track of temperature, but in general, for the whole bow I use four 40W lights well spread along the bow and a couple TV trays with two boards between them to set the sheet on. I also put a bit of tin foil between the bow and light bulbs to help spread the heat around. (Might not be required. I worried about getting hot spots without it.)
Keep in mind that the end temperature you will get is a function of the ambient temperature in the room during this process. At my house over the winter, the room temp is about 68 degrees F. You might only need two lights to do the job in a warmer room.
Last, before I take the bow off, I do let it cool to what ever the room temperature is.
|
|
|
|
Post by easternhunter on Apr 5, 2007 16:23:52 GMT -5
Thanks SMJ....stay tuned for round two of the "Jatoba Bow"
|
|
smj
Forum Guide
Traditional Council
Posts: 1,819
|
Post by smj on Apr 5, 2007 21:47:02 GMT -5
We'll be here waitin!
|
|
|
|
Post by BT on Apr 6, 2007 5:00:02 GMT -5
Keep at it eastern  |
|
|
|
Post by easternhunter on Apr 6, 2007 5:37:39 GMT -5
Well, I got the surfaces cleaned up last nite.....that Urac is TOUGH stuff once it sets up good!
I did it all by hand, since I didn't want to loose control of how much was being removed at a time.
It cleaned up well, but I left a small bit at each end of the powerlam, to act as a smoother transition to the limb surface, in fact it's barely 1/2" wide and levels out the hollow better where the powerlam meets the limb face....hopefully a new glue application will adhere to this as well as wood. I will tooth the surfaces tonite, hit with 0000 steel wool and go for glue-up.
This time, it will sit under a sleeping bag with 2 lamps for at least 24 hours, if not 36...if the backing lets go after that then I'm at a loss. Wish me luck and BTW...HAPPY EASTER to all
|
|
?
