lighted nock comparison chart need more data

[Firenock]

I have spend some time gathering data for all lighted nocks on the market. Below is what I have gather so far. If there is any error or you can help to fill in the blanks, I sure would appreciate it. I think not just me would like to know the facts. The pink area are information not available yet. If anyone can provide updated information, or correction it will be in green so we can see as we make it into a completed chart for all to see.

[BT]

Nice chart Dorge! ... holy mackerel!
This is the go to source for any question to be answered by what I can see.

Hows the inventory?....all models ready to go and if not...when?

[Firenock]

By the middle of this month. Technically all sold out except the single packs (firenock and lightning) both

[voodoofire1]

I am wondering what the effect some of those have on arrow flight? I've tried making my own, they worked.. barely... only lasting a few shots, but they flew great!.... then I spent $50 bucks on 6 that I thought sounded good... but they turned my perfectly tuned arrows into wobbly, inaccurate, ill flying shadows of their former selves....still have 3 in the pack that I didn't even bother to open.........and by the way, I did try to re-tune the arrows, but to no avail.... they fly like crap no matter what weight I have up front or even what bow I shoot them out of...(of which I have many at my disposal both Traditional and compound)...anyone know how I can get wooden plugs out of my arrows so I can shoot them again?...Steve

[stilllearning]

Drill the end put in a screw and then pull. I bet you have already tried that though havn't you?

[BT]

Through a drill bit into the shaft and sling it forcefully down in a whipping motion.
This doesn't work often on inserts but may work for you on this dilemma

[SPIKER]

But make sure the drill bit is the exact size of the shaft, or it will mushroom the end of the insert on contact, and make it even harder to get out...

[Firenock]

May 8, 2008 7:08:27 GMT -5 voodoofire1 said:

then I spent $50 bucks on 6 that I thought sounded good... but they turned my perfectly tuned arrows into wobbly, inaccurate, ill flying shadows of their former selves....still have 3 in the pack that I didn't even bother to open....

There are 3 things about your situation that you need to serious consider:
1) are the nocks on the lighted nock as well engineered as you non-lighted nock
2) the actual weight of the lighted nock
3) the design of the lighted nock

1) Some polycarbonate nock are not meant to be machines/ heated/ or modified. The change of the structure will hinder the performance of the nock (i.e. string holder power, structural integrity, etc.)
2) the weight of the lighted nock is not just grains, it is the actual weight the arrow would feel when it is in flight. i.e. 10 point of lead at the middle of the car is not the same as 10 lb on the pumper. In case of arrow, we at Firenock discover that even with less than 25 mm difference, the FOC may change up to 0.08% even it is the same weight. Just think chinese scale would give you a very good idea why
3) Design of a lighted nock is not easy, one have to take into consideration of spin balance. Some lighted nock due to design have to take that into consideration. A spinning tool would be the first thing you should check when your arrow flew like crap. Any glue that one put into a shaft need to be with caution. In case of Firenock's extreme shock battery end cap, it is also know to have issue due to excessive glue which formed on one side as one lay the arrow down sideways. As you have mention wood in your statement, there is even more issue with that as every piece of wood is natural, and how it weights and edge of the wood may not be as perfect as engineered plastic or metal. The spread of the glue may be the issue here. To counter this problem, Firenock's extreme shock battery end cap use a MIL spec O-ring to behave like a squeegee on the glue.

FYI, Firenock do not need Extreme shock battery end cap to function. They are needed when one decide to shot concrete blocks or video darts.

Hope this helped.

[stilllearning]

osomemac
The common thing I see in these lighted knocks is the cost. There is no way I can justify spending the money that most want for them. What is the cost on your products if you don't mind me asking?

[Firenock]

May 9, 2008 14:21:04 GMT -5 stilllearning said:

osomemac
The common thing I see in these lighted knocks is the cost. There is no way I can justify spending the money that most want for them. What is the cost on your products if you don't mind me asking?

Cost? You mean design and development fees that I have already sunk into; plus advertising, plus all patent lawyers filing, plus marketing, plus initial insurance, plus liability insurance, plus excile tax, plus printing, plus clamshell design, plus artwork design, plus adverting artwork design, plus import duty, plus consultant, plus warehousing, plus international travel, plus trade show, plus tooling set up, plus tooling cost, plus design fees, plus multiple mould cost, plus domestic business travel, plus royalty payment, plus overseas project manager cost, plus raw material, plus factory setup cost; plus shipping, etc. Base on my projection, if all are sold at wholesale on the and 20,000 initial year with a compound increase of 55% of 3 year of the $54.95 3-packs, I should be able to break even and recover all cost by 2010, with the initial of Oct, 2006 as 1st Fiscal year. Then it is all gravy. Not a bad deal for a 5 year investment plan, which have a 7.5% cash value built in. With a 8.9% cost of money and a margin of 15% deflation of US dollar again Euro on a 3 year projection on base line recalculation of March, 2008. Not a perfect financial projection and budget plan, to give rough "cost", but a simple one that I can easily do.