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Post by huntingdude16 on Feb 25, 2008 22:32:50 GMT -5
If you were to build one for me, I would probably like something like cherry. Something with a rich color to it.
Just out of curiosity, have you ever heard of a bow being made of chokecherry?
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smj
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Post by smj on Feb 27, 2008 0:19:48 GMT -5
Just out of curiosity, have you ever heard of a bow being made of chokecherry? Yes, I have! However, not bows like I make, rather, self bows made from a stave from the tree. I can look in to it a bit more if you'd like... Can you define "rich color" for me??? |
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Post by huntingdude16 on Feb 28, 2008 11:54:29 GMT -5
Yes, I would appreciate it. Rich color.....darker wood. I like the red of the wood. Though, I wouldnt really care what color it was if it was made of chokecherry. Not many people can say they own a bow made of chokecherry wood.  |
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smj
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Post by smj on Feb 28, 2008 15:46:51 GMT -5
Do you have access to chokecherry wood?
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Post by huntingdude16 on Mar 1, 2008 19:42:19 GMT -5
Err, I don't know. I can't imagine there is any place that sells it.
I would probably have to go find a good, straight tree to nock down?
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smj
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Post by smj on Mar 1, 2008 20:51:46 GMT -5
That would be a step in the right direction!  |
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Post by huntingdude16 on Mar 1, 2008 22:46:51 GMT -5
How thick should the tree be? How long of a bow would you suggest for this type of wood?
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smj
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Post by smj on Mar 1, 2008 23:37:53 GMT -5
When selecting a tree, the diameter of the tree will kind of determine the limb width. The radius of the crown is to be considered. A skinny tree will not have a very flat crown, unless you make a really thin bow. With most woods, a really thin bow will not stand the stress of shooting for long. So - from the Bowyers Bible, vol 1, for a 66 inch bow that draws 50 pounds at 28 inches, with a flat belly and a low crown (large diameter tree!), you should keep a limb width of 1 3/4 inches. The stave needs to be clear, with straight grain. Once log is cut, you will want to seal the ends so that it does not dry out to fast on the ends and split. Quarter a stave, clean the bark and sap wood off the stave, if the stave twists or you want reflex, steam heat the entire stave and twist or reflex once hot! Let cool, store away to finish drying - make a hot box to help with this. Once dried out, time to make a bow!
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royden
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Post by royden on Mar 2, 2008 9:48:37 GMT -5
about the biggest I remember seeing chokecherry around here is 4" but it had a lot of limbs  good luck.  |
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Post by huntingdude16 on Mar 2, 2008 11:10:09 GMT -5
Sorry for my novice question, but theres some things there I don't know. I'll highlight what I dont' understand. "When selecting a tree, the diameter of the tree will kind of determine the limb width. The radius of the crown is to be considered. A skinny tree will not have a very flat crown, unless you make a really thin bow. With most woods, a really thin bow will not stand the stress of shooting for long. So - from the Bowyers Bible, vol 1, for a 66 inch bow that draws 50 pounds at 28 inches, with a flat belly and a low crown (large diameter tree!), you should keep a limb width of 1 3/4 inches. The stave needs to be clear, with straight grain. Once log is cut, you will want to seal the ends so that it does not dry out to fast on the ends and split. Quarter a stave, clean the bark and sap wood off the stave, if the stave twists or you want reflex, steam heat the entire stave and twist or reflex once hot! Let cool, store away to finish drying - make a hot box to help with this. Once dried out, time to make a bow!" Namely, i'm not sure of the terms "stave" and "crown". |
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good luck. 