how to get started?

[huntingdude16]

I'm looking to get into traditional shooting, and I have a few questions to ask. I'll ask them one at a time.


I spose my first question would be, which is easier to learn, recurve or long bow? I think it's recurve but I'm not sure.

[smj]

Actually, this a more contested question than you might think! I am not sure that there is a right answer to it,either. They both work and are fun to shoot.

That said, Howard Hill always said that he could not shoot a recurve, that the longbow was much more accurate, easier to hit good shots with. Of course, Howard made and sold longbows...

Take two - A pal of mine makes glass laminated recurves. These are some smoking hot recurves. He also makes glass laminated longbows. I asked him when the money is on line and he has to make a shot which bow does he shoot. Tom says he shoots the longbow when he wants to hit everything. He thinks that they are a bit more forgiving. I have seen Tom put a broadhead through a 4" hole in a steel deer cut out at 40 yards. He won't try this with his recurve.

Personally, I have never been good enough with either one to really tell any difference. Which one do you like the looks of best? Also note, I've not seen many longbows at Olympic events... Hence, I'd say it is personal choice, which do you like? I like longbows!

You know, a lot of bow design changes from recurve added to materials used have been made to get more speed out of the bow. If I want speed, I'll shoot my Bowtech Pro 38 - 307 fps, a bit over 80 foot pounds on the arrow. To me, shooting traditional is not about having the fastest bow. What style/materials speaks to you personally? There are a lot of really nice looking/shooting bows out there right now. Maybe more than ever before! Pick the combination you like and give it a try!

[huntingdude16]

I do like the look of the long-bow more also. Alright, so, where could I find a decent long bow, at a decent price? How much with they cost?

[easternhunter]

Doesn't hurt to watch ebay for one....ya never know!
And ditto to what SMJ says.

I've heard it said that one archer can shoot recurves better than longbow and vise versa.....it's a personal thing. I do think that longbows seem to become an extension of the arm, maybe due to the lighter weight, I dunno. But I've shot both and haven't yet figured out which I shoot better. I currently shoot longbows, cuz that's what I build....

[huntingdude16]

Thanks for the suggestion, theres a few on ebay, one maker in particular. What do you think of this one?

cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=220200918381&Category=20840

[smj]

To be honest, having built a few bows, I'd ask the bowyer for references and then check in with them. See what they have to say about what they bought. I would also ask to see a picture of the bow strung and then at full draw. I would ask what the tiller measures and how many arrows have been shot through it and how much string-follow it exibits. Ask if it is backed at all, if so, what with. I would also ask if it is built around classic english longbow design, or the bowyers own specs, Howard Hill style perhaps... Ask what draw length it was measured at for the listed draw weight. (Typically it is at 28 inches.) Last, if you have a very long draw length, like 30 inches or better, tell the bowyer that you want the bow shot in at your longer draw length if possible. With an all wood bow, the farther you draw the bow the more compression happens in the belly of the bow. As a result of the compression, over time, the flex of the limbs can change. You'd like the bow to be as stable as possible when it gets to you. This guy will allow warranty work, but no refunds. The idea is to make sure the bow seems stable before dropping it in the mail. I just mailed a bow out, it cost me $28. Sending the bow back for adjustments could end up costing as much as the bow itself did! (over 6' lengths are pricey to ship.)

This basic bow design will show some string follow, how much is based a lot on how well it is tillered. It will have a lot of hand shock due to the flat design and long limbs. At 45 pounds draw and 77.5 inch length, this will be a very slow bow. The good news is that at 77.5 inches in length, it is over built to the point that it should last a long time - providing it is well tillered! (by tillering, I mean to say how well the limbs flex when drawn. This is set by the bowyer.)

If you like this style bow - this guy also sells an osage one backed with bamboo for $175:
cgi.ebay.com/Longbow-Traditional-Archery-40-Bamboo-backed-Osage_W0QQitemZ320179152483QQihZ011QQcategoryZ20840QtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

It is shorter - 72 inches, and backed with bamboo. While this one is only 40 pounds rather than 45, my guess is that it will shoot harder than the unbacked hickory at 77.5 inches long. My guess is that it will hold up better over time, too.

Here is an entry from Cabelas to consider as well -
www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0039098417710a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=longbow&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=longbow&noImage=0

[huntingdude16]

Hmm, ok thanks a lot.


How much do you sell your bow's for?

[smj]

huntingdude16 said:

How much do you sell your bow's for?

I have sold bows for a range of different prices, anywhere from $100 to $400, usually closer to $100 as I do this as a hobby and for the love of the sport. I just have to make certain the addiction pays for itself because I can't take my costs out of the family budget! The problem with making you a bow is that right now I have something like 9 bows in process or waiting to be started! It will take me a long time to get these out the door and I won't take on any more until these are done. This is not a full time job for me, strictly spare time. Hence, it could be a very long time until I am ready to take any more orders.

[huntingdude16]

Alright, no big deal. More-so just curiousity for now. What are all the different types of wood you use for building your bow's?

[smj]

I have used mostly hickory, ash, ipe, and osage. I have some hard maple, cherry, and red oak. Hickory I find great to work with, ipe toughest to work with. My favorite is probably osage, but I have trouble finding it. I could order it from a bowyer supply house, but can't really afford to do much of that! The last time I looked it was something like $35 for one belly board, plus something like $20 for shipping. I have been looking at purpleheart and some other woods as well, but have not spent the money yet. Hickory, an OK bow wood for sure, I can buy in 1"x2"x6' already run over the jointer and squared for something like $1.36 per foot of length. Makes for a low cost bow indeed, you just have to pick through the stock and find the clear straight grained stuff! Ipe tends to be seasonal, probably start seeing it around here in a month or so once shops start to gear up for decking season. Another wood I have a lot of interest in is cedar. I have been trying to do a little study on this wood to determine exactly what to get, but it is looking like eastern red cedar is the one I'd like to find. Back that with a nice thin bamboo strip and I think it just might be a great combo. I just have to find the source for it!