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Post by lonestararcher on Mar 3, 2010 12:49:06 GMT -5
As yall know from my previous threads I started trad hunting. I love it, but I soon realized that my bow kinda sucked. So I have been looking for a new bow. One of my very good friends has a bear kodiak recurve that is nice. I shoot it very well and it is pretty fast. the weight on it is 60x which i guess means a lil more than just 60. It is very short as well like 50 inches from tip to tip. He bought it from a widow for 100 bucks about 6 months ago and now he said he would sell it to me for 175. Is this a good deal??? It is really nice overall it has 2 very small stress fractures in the fiberglass that are only about 2 inches in length. Is this bow good??? Is it worth 175???And also he said if I buy it he will let me shoot a pig or Javalina out of his back yard with it for my first kill with trad gear which is deffinitly a plus. so let me have it guys....don't hold anything back....thanks in advance
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Post by lonestararcher on Mar 3, 2010 17:47:55 GMT -5
got some more info on the bow guys...its a kodiak magnum and is 52 inch amo and 48 inch strung...don't know if this makes a difference or not
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Post by voodoofire1 on Mar 3, 2010 23:38:07 GMT -5
if it's nice it's worth the money, I just had one given to me by a good friend it's a greenie but only 45#'s. just refinished it and waiting for the last coat to dry as I type, they are nice bows but a tad finicky about any form or release issues.. and 60x is 61#'s.... the true weight is written on the sight window under the pad material......
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smj
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Post by smj on Mar 4, 2010 13:32:20 GMT -5
I had one years ago - they are good bows. Where are the stress cracks located on the bow? Cracks are always something to consider - can you post a pic or two? Will he let you? Does the bow "tic" when drawn? Also, what is your draw length? I got rid of mine because of the finger pinch, it was causing nerve damage to the finger on top of the shaft when drawn.
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Post by voodoofire1 on Mar 4, 2010 20:20:20 GMT -5
Great questions smj, some older bears have verticle stress cracks, which can be smoothed out with a bit of CA(superglue) and a refinish, but if any of those cracks are horizontal...........PASS!!.......and smj I'm lucky as I have a 30" draw and use a split 2 fingered release.... usually finger pinch is not an issue with me..............glad to see you back!
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smj
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Traditional Council
Posts: 1,819
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Post by smj on Mar 5, 2010 16:30:03 GMT -5
I don't recall the manufacture of the CA I use - but here is a reference for you - Super Thin Cyanoacrylate : www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hlc/hlc103.htmMake sure you get the super thin stuff. It is designed to soak in to cracks. If the glue is to thick, it will span the crack and surface tension will keep it from going in to the crack. This stuff is great for any cracks that pop up on guitars tops as well. Put a drop on, let it set for a few seconds, and wipe off the excess. Let it dry, done, or sand smooth and refinish for bows... Guitars would have to be a whole new topic to refinish! Oh, don't use it on the fretboard ! Lemon oil. Only lemon oil - the fretboard will expand and remove the crack on its own as it sucks up the oil... DONT ever glue a fretboard crack!
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