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Post by BT on Jan 27, 2007 18:48:38 GMT -5
That sounds like a day well spent  |
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smj
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Post by smj on Jan 27, 2007 22:10:46 GMT -5
Does your dads pal make self bows, glass bows, or both? Just curious! The tillering is different from a self bow to a glass bow. With glass, you don't thin the belly at all, you adjust the limb width and never worry about having to thin the limb, wood flaws or surprises, or any of the other things you have to consider with a self bow, or a board bow. There can be a lot of overlap though when it comes to tools! My buds who make glass bows still use the rasps and cabinet scrapers and sandpaper and other files for getting shape in the grip sections. All of them that I know use the bandsaw and a sander to adjust the limb width. Anyway, you should see if he would give you a tour of his shop, take your bow, and pick his mind if he is willing! It will be very much worth your time.
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Coca Cola
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Post by Coca Cola on Jan 28, 2007 11:56:14 GMT -5
I think he does it all. Although I am not sure. He makes more arrows then bows, but since he is a cabnet maker he has lots of tools. Unfortunately he lives just over a hlaf hour away so I have to make my trips worth while. I decided to go with a riser bow. My dad was going out and I asked him to pick up some 1X2's for me. He asked what kind of wood and I said whatever you think would look cool. He came home with 3 pieces of wood about 1/4 inch thick. He said I thought it would look cooler if you laminated the grip. I agreed, knowing that this would probably be the down fall of my bow. I glued it up last night about 11:00 pm so how long until I can bevel then ends. If you look close the last piece of wood (top) isnt directly aligned. I had trouble getting the blocks to be in the exact right place so I left it. I am going to take off that part anyway so I figured it didnt matter. Scroll halfway down this link to see what my dimensions of riser will be after I guve glue more time to cure. www.geocities.com/salampsio/oak4.htmPic -  Link- i95.photobucket.com/albums/l127/jjrb715/Picture028.jpgI am going to back it with linen, what color do you think would be best? |
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Coca Cola
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Post by Coca Cola on Jan 28, 2007 22:19:05 GMT -5
I just backed it with linen. It looks like crap, how many layers am I supposed to do? I also furthered the floor tillering. One of my limbs was bending more then the other so I tried to fix that. I also filed the glue off the riser so it looks good now
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Coca Cola
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Post by Coca Cola on Feb 1, 2007 22:19:18 GMT -5
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Post by BT on Feb 2, 2007 7:11:09 GMT -5
I don't have any tips but your linen is scaring me.
Making me second think my desire to put a snake skin on my own bow.
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Coca Cola
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Post by Coca Cola on Feb 2, 2007 7:17:50 GMT -5
Lol, it scared me too. Maybe I could paint it, but I will cross that bridge when I burn it.
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smj
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Post by smj on Feb 2, 2007 11:40:27 GMT -5
I've not used linen before, and have not said anything as I thought maybe someone else would have input on it!
As to putting it on, my understanding is that you don't want to spare the glue. Wet the back of the bow first, the entire surface, I'd do one limb at a time, then wet the linen all the way through with glue, both sides, make sure it is soggy with glue. Start in the middle to apply the linen and work to the tips. You have to work the bubbles out as you go. DO NOT LEAVE BUBBLES! Bubbles are weak spots. If you have them, your linen will not be as strong as it could be. Putting a second layer on and leaving the bubbles will not do much other than cover them up. You can use your finger to wipe off the excess glue, working from the middle of the limb to the edge and then also up to the tip. You don't want a big build up of glue under the linen either. What you have done looks as though you didn't have enough glue on it, or put glue on the bow but not the linen. I'd be tempted to sand it off and try again. Keep in mind, I've not done linen myself, so I am not an expert on it! These are just my thoughts on the subject and how I'd try it for a first go at it. If you go snake skin, you still have to work the bubble out as well. The fake snake skin I used on my very first bow, I put epoxy on the limb, soaked the covering, and smoothed it on to the bow. Once dry, I put more epoxy over it and let it dry again. Then I went back with a palm sander and smoothed the surface up so that it was not all orange peel. It gets a bit foggy from sanding smooth, but when you put a finish on the bow the foggy apperance goes away as the finish fills the sanding marks perfect. (Assuming that you use really fine sandpaper for your last pass.) It almost looked like it had a glass finish on it, and turned out very nice indeed. By the way, the covering took a lot of glue to really soak it!
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Coca Cola
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Post by Coca Cola on Feb 2, 2007 18:40:42 GMT -5
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smj
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Post by smj on Feb 2, 2007 19:57:21 GMT -5
Your linen should be more wide than the limb, too. You can sand the edge up after it dries for that "perfect" looking finished edge. You want the linen all the way to the edge though, so a bit wider than the limb linen strip is a good thing.
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