ghost
Senior Board Member
Posts: 813
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Post by ghost on Aug 24, 2009 20:38:48 GMT -5
I am having trouble with arrows fletched with 2 inch blazers. They are all over the target. In the pic below the 5 inch vanes are good but the blazers are not.   I am using a JoJan fletcher. I have 11 degrees of right helix. I am shooting an excalibur crossbow. Anyone shooting blazers have any idea what is my problem?? Ghost |
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Post by tdickens58 on Aug 24, 2009 21:02:20 GMT -5
My understanding is that the fletching on crossbows needs to be straight. If you use a bolt with "twist in the vanes, the track on the crossbow will throw the bolt off kilter as the bolt is launched.
I couldn't remeber the technical terms, so someone can correct me if needed.
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ghost
Senior Board Member
Posts: 813
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Post by ghost on Aug 24, 2009 21:19:18 GMT -5
My understanding is that the fletching on crossbows needs to be straight. If you use a bolt with "twist in the vanes, the track on the crossbow will throw the bolt off kilter as the bolt is launched. I couldn't remeber the technical terms, so someone can correct me if needed. That is what I thought, but a number of people on other forums say they have no trouble with some helix in the vanes, but I might have too much??? Ghost |
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royden
Senior Board Member
Posts: 1,349
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Post by royden on Aug 24, 2009 21:43:26 GMT -5
I have fletched bolts, both carbon and alum (2219) with blazers. I would suggest 3deg helical (max helical with a straight clamp) - watch the leading edge and tail for lack of contact issues. Those that I fletched did fine with fp and broadheads, but they have been older x-bows. If it is a fletch contact issue, I would expect your group to tighten up (or quit expanding) at longer distances once the bolt stabilizes.
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Post by Doegirl on Aug 24, 2009 23:38:47 GMT -5
I think slight offset would be fine...As Royden said 3 degree max. My fusion vanes have a slight offset (I do believe 2degrees, but don't quote me) and I have absolutely no problems with flight out of my crossbow.
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Post by BT on Aug 25, 2009 6:11:59 GMT -5
I saw your other post but didn't see the reference to the helical before.
That could definitely be the difference.
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Post by Buckshot06 on Aug 25, 2009 6:33:07 GMT -5
With my X-bow I use a straight four fletch but my X-bow is an older model.
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ghost
Senior Board Member
Posts: 813
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Post by ghost on Aug 25, 2009 15:16:05 GMT -5
I have fletched bolts, both carbon and alum (2219) with blazers. I would suggest 3deg helical (max helical with a straight clamp) - watch the leading edge and tail for lack of contact issues. Those that I fletched did fine with fp and broadheads, but they have been older x-bows. If it is a fletch contact issue, I would expect your group to tighten up (or quit expanding) at longer distances once the bolt stabilizes. I ordered a straight clamp from Keystone. A membere on Crossbow Nation suggested refletching with the right clamp but adjusting for less helix. I am down to 9 degrees. I shot today and the blazers now form a lose group at 2 oclock. Better than yesterday but still not good, however the change in helix did effect their flight. That is a good sign.  Ghost |
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Post by horizontalhunter on Aug 26, 2009 20:55:57 GMT -5
I am shooting GT laser II arrows with a brass front insert that are fletched with the Blazers using a 4 degree right offset out of my Excalibur Exocet and they fly like darts. One of my friends is shooting the same arrow out of his Exomax with the same results. I am using the Arizona EZ Fletch jig to do my arrows. From a rest I can put broadhead tipped arrows into the same hole at 40 yards if I do my part.
Questions/Comments:
What arrow are you shooting? They look like Carbon Express.
Are you using the aluminum insert? If so I would recommend a 125g FP/BH to help with the FOC. If you have an FOC problem it won't show up until you switch to the broadheads.
It looks like you are shooting field points, correct? What weight?
If you look where the limbs are bolted to the riser you will see a black plastic shim that sometimes sticks out into the the area of the channel. I suspect that because of the amount of helical you are using the "c0ck" vane is hitting the shim and causing the loss of accuracy. The shims can be trimmed so that they are flush with the aluminum riser. Reducing the helical should also help. This is most likely the problem.
As I remember the arrows that come with the right stuff package are fletched with a 4 degree right offset. I know that when they used the Gold Tip arrows they used to anyway. I haven't bought any in quite a while as I built my own.
I would recommend that you number your arrows. In the last batch of arrows I made arrow #12 was a flyer. Always hitting up and left. It turned out the the field point was bad. Once I changed the field point it corrected the problem and arrow #12 started dropping in with the others. I never would have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself and I never would have found it if I didn't number my arrows. FWIW it was a Saunders field point. I do not think that this is your problem though. Just a helpful suggestion.
Bob
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ghost
Senior Board Member
Posts: 813
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Post by ghost on Aug 27, 2009 10:27:06 GMT -5
I am shooting GT laser II arrows with a brass front insert that are fletched with the Blazers using a 4 degree right offset out of my Excalibur Exocet and they fly like darts. One of my friends is shooting the same arrow out of his Exomax with the same results. I am using the Arizona EZ Fletch jig to do my arrows. From a rest I can put broadhead tipped arrows into the same hole at 40 yards if I do my part. Questions/Comments: What arrow are you shooting? They look like Carbon Express. Are you using the aluminum insert? If so I would recommend a 125g FP/BH to help with the FOC. If you have an FOC problem it won't show up until you switch to the broadheads. It looks like you are shooting field points, correct? What weight? If you look where the limbs are bolted to the riser you will see a black plastic shim that sometimes sticks out into the the area of the channel. I suspect that because of the amount of helical you are using the "c0ck" vane is hitting the shim and causing the loss of accuracy. The shims can be trimmed so that they are flush with the aluminum riser. Reducing the helical should also help. This is most likely the problem. As I remember the arrows that come with the right stuff package are fletched with a 4 degree right offset. I know that when they used the Gold Tip arrows they used to anyway. I haven't bought any in quite a while as I built my own. I would recommend that you number your arrows. In the last batch of arrows I made arrow #12 was a flyer. Always hitting up and left. It turned out the the field point was bad. Once I changed the field point it corrected the problem and arrow #12 started dropping in with the others. I never would have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself and I never would have found it if I didn't number my arrows. FWIW it was a Saunders field point. I do not think that this is your problem though. Just a helpful suggestion. Bob They are carbon express, if I go to GT laser II arrows I will lose 35 grains of wt, maybe that is not important. I would like to find a brass insert for the cabon express. I was wondering if that Arizona EZ Fletch would take carbon express arrow (11/32). 100 grain field points, I have change the points and the is no effect on flight. Numbering the arrows is good, I have one carbon express fletched by the dealer that hits off. I will refletch with 5 inch vanes for this season. My FOC is on 12% but there are others that shoot blazers at that FOC, probably with only a few degrees of helix. I am new at playing with arrows, about the only thing you can change with a crossbow ;D I will probably hunt the carbon express this season, seems late to start changing arrows. Thank for the very helpful info, Ghost |
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