Post by arwin on Mar 25, 2009 10:51:32 GMT -5
It's common to loose a little draw length when shooting sticks. I drew 28 on a compound and draw 27 1/4 with a longbow.
Like BT said, play with the nock point till it flies good with a bare shaft. If your arrow porpises(sp?) up and down, either your too high or too low. Shafts hitting tail high means you need to lower your nock and vise versa.
Take your time with it and raise your nock just a tweak, about an 1/8 of an inch at a time. I like to use a bow square and usually end up a couple ticks over 1/4 inch above the shelf.
Play with your brace height too. Having too high of a brace can rob your bow of speed, but you want it quiet at the same time. I like to go low (7 1/4), then twist it up a couple times and try again. I stop when I get my first "thump" from the string. 8 inches is a good all around brace, but I would try 7 3/4 just see what you get. Carbons tend to be a little stiff so a low brace will make up for that, putting a little more energy into the arrow.
Like BT said, play with the nock point till it flies good with a bare shaft. If your arrow porpises(sp?) up and down, either your too high or too low. Shafts hitting tail high means you need to lower your nock and vise versa.
Take your time with it and raise your nock just a tweak, about an 1/8 of an inch at a time. I like to use a bow square and usually end up a couple ticks over 1/4 inch above the shelf.
Play with your brace height too. Having too high of a brace can rob your bow of speed, but you want it quiet at the same time. I like to go low (7 1/4), then twist it up a couple times and try again. I stop when I get my first "thump" from the string. 8 inches is a good all around brace, but I would try 7 3/4 just see what you get. Carbons tend to be a little stiff so a low brace will make up for that, putting a little more energy into the arrow.
