tshark
Junior Member
brrrp...brrrp
Posts: 185
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Post by tshark on Mar 16, 2009 13:34:03 GMT -5
How long should I cut the arrows? My draw is 28.5". Should they be cut to 29? I guess I need to have somebody mark an arrow while i am at full draw and measure it then. Which brings up another question. Do I measure from the end of the shaft or the throat of the nock?
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Post by BT on Mar 16, 2009 18:42:14 GMT -5
Marking them is a good idea.
I would add 1" to the length from the front of the riser.
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Post by BT on Mar 16, 2009 18:43:42 GMT -5
Which brings up another question. Do I measure from the end of the shaft or the throat of the nock? Throat |
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smj
Forum Guide
Traditional Council
Posts: 1,819
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Post by smj on Mar 16, 2009 21:36:16 GMT -5
Measure from the bottom of the nock, to the front of the riser, or grip. Then add anywhere from a half inch to an inch. If you shoot a broadhead, you will want to keep it away from the fingers! Many traditional tips are sharpened on the back edge, as well as the leading edge of the blade. If you pull one of those on to one of your fingers, your finger will loose. So - half inch or an inch, it is all about how consistent you draw that bow, and if you will get excited when you take a shot on something other than a target! Many an archer ends up overdrawing just a bit, when the stakes are raised. Of course, this creates all sorts of issues - changes the anchor point, draw length, and maybe slices your finger open. Of course, this too depends on the design of the bow, and how close the shelf is to your hand. On the other side of this issue is that if you cut the arrows exactly the length you need, you are not allowed to overdraw the bow because there is a lot of motivation to not do so! Like keeping all of your fingers intact. Think about how you grip the bow... Do you wrap a finger around underneath the shelf where it could get nicked by a broadhead? If so, make the arrow a bit longer... By the way, if you bounce the edge of the broadhead off of the front of the rest, the arrow will try to bounce on your hand, even if the rest gives a lot of clearance you hand can still get it - yet another thing to think about! What you do with target tips is up to you - but I suggest thinking a bit about broadheads. I know many who like to draw the target tip right up on to the front edge of the shelf, say it helps them get the right draw length - I do not support that thought at all! If you need an aid, use a clicker, which I don't think you can do with a broadhead... OK - I am getting tired and appear to be rambling! Sorry! With any luck you'll read something of worth, if not, my intentions were most noble!!!
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arwin
Junior Member
Posts: 112
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Post by arwin on Mar 16, 2009 22:49:16 GMT -5
How long should I cut the arrows? My draw is 28.5". Should they be cut to 29? I guess I need to have somebody mark an arrow while i am at full draw and measure it then. Which brings up another question. Do I measure from the end of the shaft or the throat of the nock? Ron LaClair taught me a great trick for marking the length of your arrow. Stick a clothes pin on the shaft and draw till it touches your hand, the pin should slide along the shaft and stop when you hit anchor. Cut it an inch past where the clothes pin touches your hand.  I like the back of my broadhead a little closer to my hand but for safety reasons, I would stay and inch out.   |
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bowman
Board Regular
Sept. 2006 Ontario, My Father-inLaw and me
Posts: 417
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Post by bowman on Mar 17, 2009 5:22:34 GMT -5
Great tip Arwin
I shoot thge CX heritage ot of my 50lb. Bear Grizzily and they shoot great I also added a 3gpi weight tubes to them with a 125 gr. Muzzy Phantom
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royden
Senior Board Member
Posts: 1,349
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Post by royden on Mar 17, 2009 6:44:02 GMT -5
Arwin keep it simple  good tip ... |
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tshark
Junior Member
brrrp...brrrp
Posts: 185
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Post by tshark on Mar 17, 2009 6:54:13 GMT -5
Awesome tip about the clothes pin. I am definitely trying that this evening when i get home from work.
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tshark
Junior Member
brrrp...brrrp
Posts: 185
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Post by tshark on Mar 22, 2009 7:21:30 GMT -5
I did do the clothes pin trick and apparently I wasn't drawing the bow back my full usual draw length. The arrow was measuring about 27" and my usual draw length is 28.5". But it feels comfortable and I can anchor in the same spot each time, so I don't think I will change anything.
Also, I measured my bh and it's a little under 8" (can't remember the exact measurement).
I have a tied on nocking point that I eyeballed but I would guess it's about 1/4" higher than the arrow shelf. The arrow doesn't sit level on the shelf. What is a good nocking height, or do I just need to play around with it and find it?
Oh, btw, I got 6 Carbon Express Heritage 150's on the way. Full bare shafts with nocks and inserts. Can't wait to get them in.
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Post by BT on Mar 22, 2009 8:13:18 GMT -5
Adjust the nock height to match flight.
To start, if you are shooting 3 under, try starting at 3/4 above center.
I you are shooting split finger (index over the nock) try starting at 1/4"
Stripping a shaft of the feathers will help alot to figure the correct height since there are no feathers to stop down any high/low tendencies.
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I like the back of my broadhead a little closer to my hand but for safety reasons, I would stay and inch out.
