Improving spine

[omegabuck]

Actually ... I'm short. I can feel it a full draw. Just not comfortable. I'm pretty sure I'm torquing the bow somehow though ... otherwise I'd be hitting dead middle.

[royden]

ok, well that is a lot easier to shoot then.

as far as torque - it can either be before the shot or after the shot

before the shot - If your rest will allow this - nock an arrow and flip your rest up, then stick a piece of freezer tape down on the arrow shelf in line with the shaft where you can see it at full draw. With the bow un-drawn, the tape needs to be parrallel with the shaft; when you draw your bow you can look down the shaft and see your tape edge - if it is still parrallel if not torque. You may have to play with the tape a while or take a marker and draw a line on it because your eye is off-set from the shaft slightly ...

My parker (2000 Hunter mag) did the same thing - bow shop fussed and claimed it was in my head and would have me adjust the sights but then I would be all screwed up at different yardages and would go back and they would fuss and .... never got fixed : until ... new grip. I took the old grip off and made myself another grip narrower and smaller with the pressure point of the grip centered on the center of the riser and NO pressure on the right side of the grip so the bow would not twist to the left; wrapped it in leather and kept trying it and whittling on it till I could repeat the same grip everytime and not twist the riser when I drew.

Have you done a walk-back flight tune and checked that your rest isn't off to the left? At this point, cause you suspect yourself (and should!!), I would not change anything - but I would shoot at 5-10 yards and back up to 20 and 30 checking to see how the arrows POI changes windage wise.

good luck

[omegabuck]

Not sure when the toque is coming ... I like the tape idea, I will try that. I started some walk back tuning, that's actually how I NOTICED the wobble the arrow was making. 5 - 10 yards, couldn't see anything. 15 - 20 yards, still couldn't see anything. 30 yards, I could see all kinds of movement. 40, 50, 60 yards ... yeah it just kind of got comical. ;D You know what I'm talking about if you've had any fletching contact.

I plan on doing some more tuning here in a few minutes, and tomorrow. The shop I go to keeps telling me to enter the State Qualifier coming up this weekend .... I'm not so sure about that. LOL

Obviously now that I'm not trying to whack the fletching off the arrow at the time of release, it seems to actually be shooting faster. Imagine that huh? I think I might be able to hit about 250 FPS now!

Jan 27, 2010 8:01:34 GMT -5 royden said:

ok, well that is a lot easier to shoot then.

as far as torque - it can either be before the shot or after the shot

before the shot - If your rest will allow this - nock an arrow and flip your rest up, then stick a piece of freezer tape down on the arrow shelf in line with the shaft where you can see it at full draw. With the bow un-drawn, the tape needs to be parrallel with the shaft; when you draw your bow you can look down the shaft and see your tape edge - if it is still parrallel if not torque. You may have to play with the tape a while or take a marker and draw a line on it because your eye is off-set from the shaft slightly ...

My parker (2000 Hunter mag) did the same thing - bow shop fussed and claimed it was in my head and would have me adjust the sights but then I would be all screwed up at different yardages and would go back and they would fuss and .... never got fixed : until ... new grip. I took the old grip off and made myself another grip narrower and smaller with the pressure point of the grip centered on the center of the riser and NO pressure on the right side of the grip so the bow would not twist to the left; wrapped it in leather and kept trying it and whittling on it till I could repeat the same grip everytime and not twist the riser when I drew.

Have you done a walk-back flight tune and checked that your rest isn't off to the left? At this point, cause you suspect yourself (and should!!), I would not change anything - but I would shoot at 5-10 yards and back up to 20 and 30 checking to see how the arrows POI changes windage wise.

good luck

[omegabuck]

I know this may seem obvious even quite silly ... would a level on my sight help me determine if I'm torquing it before the shot? I mean, it should right?

[SPIKER]

The level will tell you if you are "canting" the bow.

Torquing is when you twist the riser in your hand.

[omegabuck]

Guys and Gals I could use your help in a matter. My Sister kind of recently shot a bow (Christmas) for the first time, and fell in love with Archery. Being competative like she is, I know she will continue to improve. That being said I'm not certain which arrows to get her. She's looking at the Diamon Edge (I think that's the name) at about 24" - 25" Draw and 40# - 45# ... thereabouts.

I'd prefer to give her the advantage that I didn't have ... proper equipment. (Refer to older posts with hacksaw cut arrows) ... You know what I mean.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[BT]

Thats a hard question to answer at this time...at least, it is for me.
If she was going 3-d..I would say GT ultra lights but for a good all around moderate priced arrow?.... PSE Bow Madness Shafts would be a good shaft too.

[SPIKER]

My wife shoots the Diamond Edge with GT Ultralights. Nice set up.

[omegabuck]

I like it ... at first obviously she'll be going target until she's comfortable enough to go 3d. I don't think it'll take her long though. I'm hoping she'll be ready for Hunting Season! Either way, I'll have someone to shoot with.