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Post by BT on Jan 18, 2009 10:36:12 GMT -5
Oh come on now! ;D Build the speed up and increase the arrows weight. No problem You're right, I might have to jack up the poundage slightly, but if I work up to a 700+ grain arrow, I should be able to hit .57 Well....we have a base line and modifications are going to be made. Thats what I want to track....what has to or will change as each person works toward/away from the theory. I don't think that weight is what you need. Your bow has alot more snot in it without adding weight IMO....based on your recorded fps with the 340 gr. arrow.
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Post by Doegirl on Jan 18, 2009 10:42:00 GMT -5
Ashby himself can't even achieve 0.57 ;D ;D ;D. Really, the 82lb longbow he uses in the 2007 updates he gets 0.52. I forget what weight arrow he was using. I don't think it's possible to get .57 out of my setup... Oh come on now! ;D Build the speed up and increase the arrows weight. No problem By the way....whats the arrow head and weight and is that part of the 450gr? What happened to 600?....can you stuff the shaft just for fun and see what the end result is on speed loss and calculated MO/KE ? Yes...we can probably guess that but if you can do it, why guess. It was just an arrow the shop had laying around. It was about 27" inches long with a 100grain tip. I don't remember the make. Everybody in the shop was just dying to chrono the bow. The lighter arrow was a 340grain Beman Hawk. I did pick up a half dozen Easton Full Metal Jackets. I intentionally got the .400 spine so I could play around with heavier heads. I guess these will be my "light" arrows. I would imagine something like Grizzlystik Alaskans could get me to the 700 mark pretty easy. I just want to work my up in increments as much as I can
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Post by BT on Jan 18, 2009 10:54:06 GMT -5
I did pick up a half dozen Easton Full Metal Jackets. I intentionally got the .400 spine so I could play around with heavier heads. I guess these will be my "light" arrows. I would imagine something like Grizzlystik Alaskans could get me to the 700 mark pretty easy. I just want to work my up in increments as much as I can Are you shooting for the 20% FOC?
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Post by Doegirl on Jan 18, 2009 10:54:56 GMT -5
I did pick up a half dozen Easton Full Metal Jackets. I intentionally got the .400 spine so I could play around with heavier heads. I guess these will be my "light" arrows. I would imagine something like Grizzlystik Alaskans could get me to the 700 mark pretty easy. I just want to work my up in increments as much as I can Are you shooting for the 20% FOC? Yes...
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Post by BT on Jan 18, 2009 10:58:40 GMT -5
well then....the full metal should bring you very close to 500grns once they are built. Are you shooting a 27 or 26" arrow @ 26.5? Oh....maybe I already asked you this?....what style broadhead?. Make doesn't matter, just style....if you know.
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Post by Doegirl on Jan 18, 2009 11:12:58 GMT -5
well then....the full metal should bring you very close to 500grns once they are built. Are you shooting a 27 or 26" arrow @ 26.5? Oh....maybe I already asked you this?....what style broadhead?. Make doesn't matter, just style....if you know. 26.5" arrow, COC 2blade. A 200 grain head should get me to 500. Right now, with a 125grain tip, I'm right at 425grains.
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Post by Buckshot06 on Jan 18, 2009 11:41:21 GMT -5
Doegirl I don't know if this would help but some guys at my locale archery shop that shoot trad put peep tubing in there carbon arrows the hole length of the shaft and they said that the added weight from the tubbing didn't show any bad after affects. I don't know I personaly didn't do it to my arrows but it was a thought maybe you could try out .
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Post by Doegirl on Jan 18, 2009 11:49:52 GMT -5
OK I think I'll base my arrow weights on this chart: www.daggaboysafaris.co.za/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=52 I will conveniently ignore the draw weight and KE requirements and focus solely on momentum and arrow mass. Right now I'm GTG with deer sized game at 425grains. 500 would get me to larger, elk sized game. Bison I'm going to treat the same as buffalo and get that arrow weight at least to 600grain. I've already got enough momentum for up to buffalo sized game, according to the chart.
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Post by BT on Jan 18, 2009 16:35:28 GMT -5
Doegirl I don't know if this would help but some guys at my locale archery shop that shoot trad put peep tubing in there carbon arrows the hole length of the shaft and they said that the added weight from the tubbing didn't show any bad after affects. I don't know I personaly didn't do it to my arrows but it was a thought maybe you could try out . This is a part of the K&R Anchor (rubber tubing) and it works fine for stabilizing flight without effect to shot window increases, but it adds Zero% to real momentum changes as reflected in real arrow weight. In other words...it may make you feel better but it's still gonna act like a lighter shaft. The rubber has no strength and is not a structural part of the shaft, so it's weight will not addng real weight to the shaft as it relates to funtional. It will act as a shock unto itself.
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Post by BT on Jan 18, 2009 16:39:55 GMT -5
OK I think I'll base my arrow weights on this chart: www.daggaboysafaris.co.za/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=52 I will conveniently ignore the draw weight and KE requirements and focus solely on momentum and arrow mass. Right now I'm GTG with deer sized game at 425grains. 500 would get me to larger, elk sized game. Bison I'm going to treat the same as buffalo and get that arrow weight at least to 600grain. I've already got enough momentum for up to buffalo sized game, according to the chart. According to my estimates, you will max out at 500grains of arrow weight. After 500 the speed loss will cause the Momentum to invert. But that is at the current bow specs for FPS. What does your calculators tell you Doegirl?
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