|
Post by voodoofire1 on Jan 3, 2008 16:18:01 GMT -5
BT, Yes usually, but I put up my chrono for the winter so I don't have any for the last three, although if the owners post any #'s anywhere I'll post them here, been averaging high 180's, to low 190's at 9gpp with walnut being the best performer in both speed and smoothness. the last one I chrono'd was 62" 63#@29 and shot a 540gr. arrow at 203, which I believe is a little less that 9 gpp.here's a pic of it.
|
|
|
Post by BT on Jan 3, 2008 18:23:25 GMT -5
I see the link but it isnt showing for some reason
|
|
smj
Forum Guide
Traditional Council
Posts: 1,819
|
Post by smj on Jan 4, 2008 9:14:25 GMT -5
Those are nice looking bows! Very nice indeed...
Looks like you have some snake skin backings - over or under the glass? Glue? When you put the antler parts on the limbs at the tips and riser mount - again - glue and temp? Do you have to re-bake the limbs? How much reflex is in your limb, what angle do you mount them on the riser? Do you use the sander to smooth the lmb mounting surface on the riser, or something else? With wood risers, I've used jointers to be sure it is flat... Don't know that I'd do that with antler! Does walnut do better than bamboo for smoothness and speed? Do you find the clear glass faster than the black glass? Also, what brace do you set to, and what draw do you get on a 62" bow before it stacks?
Thanks for posting!!!
|
|
|
Post by voodoofire1 on Jan 5, 2008 8:00:52 GMT -5
Ok smj, here goes...skins over the glass, never put them under, shear strength of the wood/glass will be severely compromised, and could lead to serious injury!
I use titebond 2 or3, let air dry at least overnight and then sand,seal and apply finish
On my tips and overlays i use a special industrial CA(cyanoacrylate-superglue), no heat.
I generally use 11 degree pad angle, have made them as little as 7 degrees though.
I use a rigid edge/spindle sander to smooth the limbpads.
And yes in my experience with my design walnut is a better performer than boo in both areas.
never used black glass, so I have no Idea.
my brace heights vary depending on the bow, some short as 6 1/2 and as much as 7 3/4. remember, these are kustom bows, each are different, each are handmade from scratch to fit the shooter and his or her style and desires exactly, no middle of the road bows here, I don't just take a pair of limbs, slap them on a riser and call it a kustom, each piece is handmade to work in concert with each other, and the shooter, and fit that bow only, my limbs don't interchange between bows either, they are made to fit and work with that bow only, if you would want another set you would have to send the whole bow, not just the riser, not just the limbs, the whole thing back to me so I can make,and then fit them exactly to the bow. you know i never realized till i started this thread how much I actually put into these bows that I just can't put into words, I can show you pics, describe how i do it, but the exact details would fill a book, I have a lifelong backround in designing,fabricating, assembling and fitting kustom parts, and I just can't put those 40 years of experience into words.(rebuilt my first alternator at age 8, unassisted,rebuilt my first briggs 5 horse that year too, dad still has it, and it still runs.)
Stacking. well I don't really know, I can shoot 31" with my 62"er and not a sign of it, built a 58"er, that I've shot at 31" with no stack either, had a little finger pinch though!
Thanks for asking,Steve
|
|
|
Post by BT on Jan 5, 2008 8:45:21 GMT -5
Your tempting me here
|
|
smj
Forum Guide
Traditional Council
Posts: 1,819
|
Post by smj on Jan 5, 2008 10:21:18 GMT -5
I understand about all the details! I'm not trying to get a book out of you, just a bit more flavor of the way you make your bows. Thank you very much for sharing!
Could I get in another question? Can you give a glue and manufacturer for the CA glue you use to fix antler and tips to the bow? I have been wanting to add some antler at the nocks and also at the grip area on some of my bows, but have been wondering what glue to use for that. The Urac I use is great for wood, but I've been worried about how it would hold on antler.
Many thanks, stevej
|
|
red
Forum Guide
Posts: 1,501
|
Post by red on Jan 5, 2008 15:07:42 GMT -5
Good info. I really admire both of you guys with this type of craftsmanship!
|
|
|
Post by voodoofire1 on Jan 5, 2008 20:59:07 GMT -5
Thanks Red! The glue I use is called "extreme power thick" it's available at hobby lobby of all places, hear michael's crafts has it too, smj, works really well to seal the pores in wood and antler too, it's pretty good stuff!! always ready to answer any questions you have!..Steve
|
|
oldgun
Board Regular
Posts: 516
|
Post by oldgun on Jan 20, 2008 17:56:30 GMT -5
very nice, love the overall look, good work.!
|
|
smj
Forum Guide
Traditional Council
Posts: 1,819
|
Post by smj on Jan 20, 2008 22:22:18 GMT -5
I went to both hobby lobby and michael's - hobby lobby had it out here as well. Michael's did not carry it in the store here in Longmont. Anyway, I needed one shop to carry it, so I am good! Used it on a bow to hold on some antler sides on the grip.
|
|