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Post by lonestararcher on Mar 14, 2010 15:27:19 GMT -5
Hey guys. I picked up that bear kodiak magnum 60x and absolutly love it. But i had a few questions. First off, i thought I wanted to go with cedar arrows. Just because I always thought they were freakin sweet. But at me local bow shop the other day i talked about it and they strongly recomended aginst it. They said in quote, " If you bought 100 cedar arrows maybe only 10 we be spined the same and fly the same, the rest would be junk....go with alluminums." I do still have some alluminums from my old recurve. And they fly pretty good. what are thoughts on this...I'm so confused....i thought cedars were awesome arrows....is that not the case?  Second question....there is a little flip out arrow rest on this bow...but the shelf is also covered in bear fur...what is best and most accurate....shooting off shelf or using a rest..... Thanks for yalls responces in advance |
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oldgun
Board Regular
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Post by oldgun on Mar 14, 2010 15:52:42 GMT -5
I'm using aluminums myself and have tried a few carbons really don't find much difference in how they fly, I'm also waiting for another bow to make it's way to my front door should be here within the week. Finished setting up my back yard for shooting so am ready to gooooo! I've been unable to find any good cedar near here to even try.
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Greg Krause
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AKA- Skipmaster1
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Post by Greg Krause on Mar 14, 2010 16:00:06 GMT -5
Cedar shafts are fine and if you order them from a good online dealer you can get them already sorted for spine and weight. They won't be as consistant in weight, spine or straightness as aluminum or carbons, but that doesn't matter. They will fly fine.
BUT
I stick with carbons for the most part because of the durability. You will break WAY more wood shafts than carbons. It's really about personal choice. I like wood because of the romance but mostly shoot carbon for practical reasons
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smj
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Traditional Council
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Post by smj on Mar 15, 2010 0:13:20 GMT -5
First off, i thought I wanted to go with cedar arrows. Just because I always thought they were freakin sweet. But at me local bow shop the other day i talked about it and they strongly recomended aginst it... Second question....there is a little flip out arrow rest on this bow...but the shelf is also covered in bear fur...what is best and most accurate....shooting off shelf or using a rest..... Hey lonestar! Wow, traditional questions... This is great! Let also add, nice choice of bow! I had one of those back in the 70's, I liked it a lot... There is nothing wrong with cedar. Much. I love them. Howard Hill claimed that with his draw and the draw weight he was shooting, you could not get the right mix of weight and spine. Period. He forced himself to shoot a 28 icnh draw length because of this. You can buy long shafts for heavy draw bows, but those arrows are going to be heavy! You can get a really heavy arrow really quick. You will have to sort through them, spine wise, to get matched arrows. You will have to straighten them, if you want straight arrows... Some wiggle is not an issue for target arrows - can be a lot harder with hunting tips as you really want that wide tip pointed right down the middle, not off to the side. They break. Most folks make different arrows for target and hunting, it is much harder to change tips, so you need more arrows. Changes in humidity will have an effect on them... A little more or less warp, slight changes in weight. There are good wood arrows, and not so good wood arrows. As Greg said, buy from a good online dealer. Don't expect to save money because they are wood. Anyone who wants, feel free to argue any of the above points... When you "make" a wood arrow - you really make one. You may not cut it off the plant - but you have to do everything to it. Aside from cutting to length, straightening, putting tapers on the ends for nock and tip, glue those both on, you have to coat or paint the arrow to seal it from weather and slow down percent humidity change effects, usually crest it, and pray you never hit a rock. That said, knew a guy who had some "compressed oak" shafts, at least that was what he said they were... We shot those things at everything and they flew well and no matter what - they would not break. They did look like oak - but I have never found a source for them. They were also flu-flu's and could do nothing but fly straight with that kind of fletching on them. And in Colorado, we don't really have humidity... Anyway - there are a few thoughts on wood. I have some, I like them, there can not be found a more beautiful arrow, I think, than a well crafted wood arrow. And there is the whole link to the past days of archery. All of that said, people who have not shot wood don't know what they are missing. Wood shafts are a great choice, they do fly really well, but they are a lot more bother to keep in perfect trim and lack the durability and weather resistance of carbon. Aluminum arrows... The only reason in this universe to shoot aluminum arrows, in my opinion, is that you simply can not find the spine and mass that you need in carbon. Hit a rock, buy a new arrow. Bounce off a tree, buy a new arrow. Pull the arrow out of the target to the side, buy a new arrow. I do not like aluminum. I used to shoot them a lot. Like, it was the only thing other than wood, really, and they were a lot easier to build than wood. Call me a carbon snob, I don't care! However, I will say that when shooting really fast, not traditional by any means, they don't weld themselves in to the target, and remain easy to remove. Carbon arrows... Yeah, I am a fan. You pay more, but it is worth it. The hard part about carbon is finding the weight and spine that works for traditional shooting. I find carbon to run a bit "stiff" for traditional. Also, when you go to the heavier arrows, most of the time the spine goes up with it. I shoot Goldtip Traditional shafts, full length, with 145 grain tips with insert weight to get the weight I want, and adjust the spine for the bow I shoot. Right now, I am enjoying a longbow that draws ~64 pounds at 31", and is very close to being a center shot. These arrows fly marvelously! Each one is a dart. However, drop the draw weight to that of another bow, maybe 8 pounds lighter, and with less preload, and a bit slower shooting, and not a center shot - arrows bounce/shoot left. I can shoot them, but my form is critical ! Anything even slightly off and the arrow flies way stiff. I get around the issues by using impeccable form (mostly release), and a lot of cant. (Lean the bow to way to the right !) The rest... Target shooters like those little flip out rests. The idea being that there is less for the arrow to hit on the way off the rest. OK. I have used them, they work well. However, if the arrow is well matched to the bow, for me anyway, I can not tell the difference. Maybe I don't shoot well enough to notice. But then, I don't shoot targets for score in tournaments. Right now, I am getting better, at 20 yards on a pig size 3D target, out of 12 arrows I had 10 clean kills, one nick over the top (great line though !), and one a bit forward in the shoulder. (the draw weight is still a bit heavy for me and I am shooting my way in to it... I don't recommend this to anyone! The bow is also new to me, I have only been out with it 5 times.) I have watched my pal Tom shoot palm sized groups of 6 at 40 yards. And repeat that on request. We both shoot off the shelf. I like the reliability of shooting off the shelf. I mean, you loose that little flipper when out hunting, your hunt is over. I prefer the shelf. What you should do, I think, is try it both ways and see what you prefer. If the shelf is flat, you can have some issues trying to shoot off it. The shelf should have some curve to it. If you've follow up questions, be specific and I'll try to post pictures of what I am talking about. Good luck, and have fun ! |
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Post by BT on Mar 15, 2010 16:45:33 GMT -5
Your shop is like every shop out there...very little knowledge on the subject, so they just try and steer you toward what they do know.
I prefer the ash shafts and cedar is fine too.
Get a shaft that is spined 10-15# over what you are shooting and scale the bow where you are shooting it.
If you are drawing below or above the 28" ammo listing.....
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Post by lonestararcher on Mar 16, 2010 11:35:53 GMT -5
Wow...geez thanks for all the quick responces guys. I knew I could count on yall. I made up my mind. I am shooting off of the shelf, and I found a good alluminum arrow that has a really good spine and weight that fly like darts.......buuuuuut....I also bought 6 cedar arrows but I'm saving them for deer season because like Skip said....I really enjoy the romance with the wood arrows. So I'll probly slay some oinkers and goblers with the alluminums but come november I'll be flingin wood.
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smj
Forum Guide
Traditional Council
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Post by smj on Mar 17, 2010 0:58:41 GMT -5
I just looked at what I wrote... Sorry to ramble on like that! I've been working a ton of hours and should really go to bed when I get home rather than getting on the internet !!! Kind of like tonight... ;D Sounds like a great plan coming together at the right time.  You should be more than ready come November ! If you've more questions, please ask - I'll be more to the point. |
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You should be more than ready come November !