Thinking about getting the recurve out

[nkybuck]

I started with a 40 lb. Pearson Colt of my Dad's I shoot it from time to time but never put much time into it. If I were going to deer hunt with this bow what would you guys recomend for arrows and broadheads I don't think I would shoot over 15yd. The bow is marked as 29'' I've shot it in 3D shoots before I'm pretty sure with a good practice regiment I could take a deer with it. I have no ideal where to start for arrows I would like to shoot carbon but I'm open to any advice.

[BT]

Feb 9, 2009 14:22:24 GMT -5 nkybuck said:

I started with a 40 lb. Pearson Colt of my Dad's I shoot it from time to time but never put much time into it. If I were going to deer hunt with this bow what would you guys recommend for arrows and broadheads I don't think I would shoot over 15yd. The bow is marked as 29'' I've shot it in 3D shoots before I'm pretty sure with a good practice regiment I could take a deer with it. I have no ideal where to start for arrows I would like to shoot carbon but I'm open to any advice.

Sorry to ask but what is your draw length?.
The reason I ask is because in most states you are required to use 45# minimum and if the bow is marked 29", that means it's 40# at 29".
For every inch less draw weight you will be 4# lighter (estimated) than the listed draw weight.
Personally, I would train in on that bow till you were considering the fact that you just couldn't miss and then step that true weight up to 50# minimum.
JMO

I might be able to hook you up with a heavier bow if you get serious with this
You got my support Dude!....go for it!

[nkybuck]

I'm 29'' with a release I was 30'' when I shot fingers there is no weight restriction in Ky. It used to be 40 a few years ago when my son started hunting he was 9 and he was pulling 35 lb and it was legal.

[BT]

Feb 9, 2009 16:01:41 GMT -5 nkybuck said:

I'm 29'' with a release I was 30'' when I shot fingers there is no weight restriction in Ky. It used to be 40 a few years ago when my son started hunting he was 9 and he was pulling 35 lb and it was legal.

So that would make the bow weight 40 for you....if your hitting the full 29"
Thats Doable, but the offer is open if you think you wan to bump that to 54-55#

Anyway....

Starting at 40# I personally would be looking at a heavier shaft because the bow itself has some years on it.
Over stressing those limbs by shooting bare minimum weight shafts is a good way to end that bow before season.
(or at least risk it)
I have had some real issues with penetration at the weight your talking about and with what I know now, I would gear for the highest penetration potential possible, first and foremost.

If you look at the first page of my '09 journal, you will see that the shaft I got the most penetration with was the Alaskan Sitka....which is spined perfect for you @ 30" with a 150 - 200gr. head.
Although more expensive, they are worth it and that is what I have always said.
You couldn't find a stronger shaft anywhere at any price without going to Fiberglass....which I haven't seen in years
Dont be afraid to start full length and cut back an inch at a time until you hit the best flight.
When doing this, I would start with a 125gr. head weight so that if you go to far, you will know it and then be right on for the heavier weight required in the first place.

The Broadhead that I would look at would be in the 150 - 200 grain weight range and would have to be 2.5 Ratio at Minimum.
I would look at heads that are glue in style to allow tuning ease.
Start with a 125gr. and adjust overall weight by using steel and aluminum inserts.
Put the inserts in with hot melt glue such as ferrule tight so that you can remove and change inserts till you find the correct weight.

If you just cant commit to the Alaskans at first, I would then suggest the traditional series 3555 or 500.
The Traditional series shafts are heavier although a bit more expensive.
Flat flight isn't going to play into it if you are limiting your shots to 15 yrds (I agree with you on that thought) so go toward the weighter designs.

With these lighter shafts, I would recommend 100-125 gr. heads, depending on tune alone.
2.5 ratio remains the same.


Now with all that said!

SMJ should be the final word on this subject IMO
I may have experience but not on his level

[nkybuck]

Explain the 2.5 ratio I appreciate the offer on the bow I would like to take just one deer with this one. Then if I really get into it we'll talk.

[BT]

The Ratio pertains to the width of the cutting diameter in relation to the overall length.
While there is a plethora of 2.5 ratio heads, there are even more 2.3 ratio heads.
Before I go on...forget multiple blade heads.....concentrate on single blade designs.

If you want to make a 2.3 ratio into a 2.5 or a 2.5 into a 2.75 yo can accomplish this by cutting the rear of the blade down to lessen the diameter.
I prefer this method myself as it lets me choose the best design rather than the best design within the criteria that pertains to ratio alone.

If I were you, I would start looking for a 1"diameter or less with 7/8" being the preferred.
There was one manufacturer that made a very good 2.5 @ 7/8 but I cant mention their name in a public forum.
That said....their ferrule design is weaker due to a redesign so I am not even sure that it merits consideration anymore.

Based on everything that I said previously, I would start with the Zwickey Eskimo.
Thats JMO and as I said...I will defer to SMJ.

[BT]

[Doegirl]

I see alot of promise with Grizzly Broadheads. I've just started to play around with them in my heavy setup for the compound. I'm using the 160gr whose diamensions are 2 3/4" long by 1 1/16" wide. They're also single bevel with a tanto style type, which is less prone to curl on bone hits than than a needle point. I haven't proven anything with them yet, just stating I definitely see some potential for them with low poundage gear.

[BT]

Feb 10, 2009 1:57:56 GMT -5 Doegirl said:

I see alot of promise with Grizzly Broadheads. I've just started to play around with them in my heavy setup for the compound. I'm using the 160gr whose diamensions are 2 3/4" long by 1 1/16" wide. They're also single bevel with a tanto style type, which is less prone to curl on bone hits than than a needle point. I haven't proven anything with them yet, just stating I definitely see some potential for them with low poundage gear.

Definitely a worthy head.
I have some Ashby heads coming this week and I will be flatting those leading points (like the Grizzly)as well.
Might even cut back the blade a I showed on the Eskimo (above).

[nkybuck]

I think I will order the Alaskan Sitkas soon. I'll have to let my allowance build back up. ;D I just bought a dozen of CXL 250's with weighted srew in tips. Is Keystone a good place to get these.